Thursday, December 6, 2007
Epoxy vs Polyester for Stone Laminations
Frederick M. Hueston
I was sitting in my office when I received a call from a hotel manager about a swimming pool coping that was falling apart. I asked him what was falling apart and he told me that the stone was falling into the pool. I got in my truck and made my way over to the hotel and discovered that the swimming pool had a travertine coping and all the laminations where failing and falling off. I examined the laminations closely and discovered that Polyester was used in the laminations.
Several weeks later I got a similar call from a home owner who had a similar problem but this time the laminations where failing on her new granite countertop. Again, upon inspection, the adhesive used was polyester.
How many of you use polyester for your laminations and other applications where you are bonding two pieces of stone together? If you do, your laminations are prone to failure.
There are many choices when it comes to the selection of adhesives and it can get very confusing. The following is a brief explanation of the two most popular adhesives in the stone industry and a guide as to where to use what type:
Epoxy or Polyester?
Polyester
Polyesters use a hardening agent to catalyze the curing reaction. Most polyesters use a peroxide hardening agent.
Of all the adhesives available polyester is the least inexpensive but also has the weakest bond strength. It also has a very high shrinkage rate and the highest water absorption amongst all the adhesives. It is also very prone to UV degradation and will crack and become brittle.
For this reason polyester should never be used for laminations or for repairs in wet area or used outdoors.
Polyesters are good for small repairs for indoor stone applications such as filling and seams or in applications where bond strength is of no concern. The bond strength of polyesters is less than 500 PSI.
Epoxy
Epoxies are two parts labeled part A and Part B. Most epoxies are mixed at a ratio of 2/1 but some are 1/1.
Of all the adhesives used in the stone industry epoxies have the strongest bond. Bond strengths can exceed 2000 PSI. It has a lower shrinkage rate than polyester and is more UV stable with a lower water absorption rate.
It is clear that if you want great adhesion, epoxy is the stronger adhesive. I always recommend using epoxy for laminations and rodding and anywhere else you want the stone to stick and not fall apart.
A little experiment.
Here is a crude test that I perform when testing adhesives for bond strength.
Take two pieces of stone with the polished sides facing each other. Place some adhesive on the polish faces and clamp them together. Let the clamped pieces set overnight. The next morning take a hammer and try to break them apart. A weak glue, such as polyester will break clean, leaving the face of the stone intact. A strong adhesive such as an epoxy will be so strong that the face of the stone will spall off. This indicates that the adhesive bond is stronger than the natural bond of the stone.
Adhesive Grades:
All adhesives are available in various viscosities ranging from low to high. The following are the most popular choices
Knife Grade- Consistency is similar to spackling putty or creamy peanut butter.
Flowing Grade- Consistency of a motor oil
Penetrating Grade- Consistency of water
Super Penetrating Grade- Consistency of a solvent such as mineral spirits or paint thinner
Generally knife grades are used for repairs for fills that are over 1/16 of an inch wide. Flowing grades are used for repairs smaller than 1/16th and for laminations and rodding.
Penetrating and super penetrating grades are rarely used by fabricators but are used for resining stone and for applications where an adhesive is need to penetrate very small pores.
Adhesive Colors
Today’s adhesives are available in a number of colors however there may times when you need to add coloring. Many of the adhesive manufacturers have tints that you can use. If you in a pinch I have found that artist oil colors work well for most polyesters, however for epoxies you will need to use tints designed specifically for them.
General Properties
Temperature
All adhesives are sensitive to temperature and humidity. This means that cure times will vary. Adhesives will cure faster with increasing temperatures and slower at cooler temperatures.
Temperature will also affect the viscosity. Higher temperature will thin the adhesive.
Tip: There are several heated dispensers for epoxies that work very well for faster cure times and easier flowing.
Cure Time
The general rule of thumb for most adhesives is the slower the cure time the stronger the bond. Epoxies with a 7 hour cure time are going to be much stronger than an epoxy with a five minute cure time.
If too much hardener is added to polyester you will increase the cure time but you will reduce the bond strength.
UV exposure
Nothing is completely UV proof; however epoxies are more UV resistant than polyesters and are the adhesive of choice for outdoor exposure.
Moisture
Polyester is very sensitive to moisture and for that reason it should be avoided in wet areas such as showers. Epoxy has a much higher tolerance for moisture and is the adhesive of choice in wet areas.
When using polyester you must make sure that the stone is completely dry. Epoxies can tolerate some moisture.
Polyester
The stone must be completely dry
If you do not thoroughly mix the resin and hardener it will probably cure anyway
You can use most colors to tint
Many varieties available
Good adhesion when prepared properly
Can easily be used for patching
Stone surface must be abraded before sticking
Should NOT be used for exterior or in moist locations
Quick curing time (normally 10 minutes to 1 hour depending on the product and the weather)
Epoxy
Stone can be a little moist
Resin and hardener must be thoroughly mixed to cure
You should use only colors made for epoxy
Not as many varieties available
Great adhesions when prepared properly
Not as easily used for patching
Stone surface should be abraded, but it will stick to a smooth surface also
CAN be used for exterior and moist locations
Slow curing time (normally 7 hours depending on the product and the weather)
Use Chart
Laminations- Epoxy
Indoor repair- Polyester
Rodding- Epoxy
Outdoor Repair- Epoxy
Mending- Epoxy
Seams- Polyester
Attachments- Epoxy
Mr. Hueston is the founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades (www.ntc-stone.com) and Stone University (stoneuniversity.org).
Thursday, November 8, 2007
Going Green Means More Green $$$ in your pocket
By Frederick M. Hueston
Unless you have been living under a rock the last ten years(no pun intended),going green is something you have at least heard of. Now , most of us that run a stone fabrication shop rarely think of going green and protecting the environment. However, this is something that will change in the years to come and its something that every stone shop should be thinking about. Before I discuss how to go green and how it can benefit your shop lets first define what going green means. According to the US Green Building Council green is "Principles that minimize the use of nonrenewable resources and seek to prevent air, water and ground contamination and other activities that degrade the environment." Lets look at this a little closer and how it can not only help planet earth, but how it can put more "green" in your pocket. First, going green is not a requirement or a law at this time. It is strictly voluntary. The following statement is from http://www.usgbc.org, which is the website to go to for all the information you will need on green. LEED(Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Green Building Rating System is a voluntary, consensus-based national standard for developing high-performance, sustainable buildings. So, if this is not a requirement why should I care you might ask? The following are several reasons:
Stone is Green. Just think about this for a moment. We are selling mother earth herself. Let us not forget that we are dealing with a natural resource. What better selling point then to advertise and market the fact that you are using a green product. Not only homeowners, but architects and designers both are keen to use green products. One of the latest trends in building design is to use recyclable building materials. Why recycle when you can use a natural green product such as stone.
Competitive Edge- Going green will give you one up on your competitors. What better way to gain the competitive edge then to let your potent ional customers know that you are not only working with a green product but your business is concerned with mother earth.
Save the Planet- What can be more satisfying in knowing that you are helping save the plant.
What can you do to go green in your shop.
Recycle and filter your water- Water recycling and filtering in many towns is now a requirement and will soon be a requirement all over the US. This is especially true in areas where water is scarce. There are several companies that now make recycling and filtration equipment. For a list of companies
Go Wet- It surprises me how many shops today are still cutting, grinding and polishing stone dry. In my book this is a no-no. Dry cutting and grinding releases silica dust in the air which can cause siliceous, a very serious lung disease.
Recycle your stone- See the next section below on what to do with your stone waste.
Build with Green Materials- There are many new material for building that are made from recycled materials such as tires, plastic milk jugs and other materials that are normally just thrown away.
Use Natural Floor Materials- get rid of the carpets and install stone flooring in your showroom and office. This will also help you sell more stone.
Use non toxic chemicals- use water based sealers and cleaners. Try to stay clear of solvent based materials.
What to do with your stone waste
Many fabricators have a big issue with there stone waste. I talked with a fabricator recently that was spending over $2000 per month on disposal of their stone waste. There are several ways to dispose of your waste and even a few where you can generate more green$$$$
Here are a few suggestions:
Have a weekend sale. I know several fabricators who open up there stone yard to the general public and sell there waste for next to nothing. Some even give it away. Take a small ad in the newspaper and advertise it. You can make some extra money by charging the customer to cut the piece or even profile and polish it. I know one fabricator who made over $35000.00 on one weekend with this method.
Tumble it- Tumble stone is big and customers love it. Why not take you waste, cut it into small tiles and tumble it. These tiles can be sold for as much as $20 each.
Give it away to artist and craftspeople- if you are in an area that has a large arts and crafts community, why not give it away. You wont be making any money on it but on the other hand you wont be spending it to get rid of it.
Sidewalks and patios- what about using it in sidewalks and patios. Masons get some big dollars for this type of work and it looks great. Terrazzo companies may also be interested in it for what is knows as palandiana terrazzo.
Chicken Grit- Buy and rock crusher and grind the stone into fine grit and sell it to chicken farmers as chicken grit.
www.ntc-stone.com and www.stoneuniversity.org
Saturday, November 3, 2007
A Guide to Selecting Granite Counter Tops
Introduction
Congratulations on considering using granite for your new counter tops. Granite is becoming the number one material used for counter tops in all buildings and it should be. In a recent study by the Kitchen and Bath Association, granite counter tops are being used in nearly 1/3 of all new homes being built today. Granite is a durable material with many advantages over other materials traditionally used.
Granite is an excellent choice for counter tops. It is very scratch resistant. Most granite will not be affected by acidic foods. Hot plates can be placed directly on the surface. Some granites are somewhat porous and can stain very easily therefore proper sealing is a must. Granite is also available in polished and matt finishes. Granite is also expensive but is one of the most beautiful counter tops available.
Granite- Dispelling the Myths
Many of you will use granite for your new counter tops and you will run into many myths when shopping for granite. The following will help you deal with these myths and rumors.
Do not use granite. It is dangerous and can harm you. Granite emits radon and it can also harbor bacteria. Theses are some of the statements that are being rumored lately. They are absolutely not true. Lets take a look at each one of these rumors:
Myth #1- Granite can harbor harmful bacteria!
This statement is simply untrue. We Contacted The Center for Disease Control(CDC) and The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) to find out how many cases they had on file where granite has caused any illness or disease as a result of bacteria. They could not find one case, proving that granite will not harbor bacteria. In addition, you would expect one to clean their counter top on a regular basis.
Myth #2- Granite contains harmful radon gases!
This again is another myth that is untrue. This claim was investigated by Donald Langmuir, PhD, Professor Emeritus of Chemistry and Geochemistry at the Colorado School of Mines and President of Hydrochemical Systems Corp. Mr Langmuir response can be found at http://www.natural-stone.com/radonmyth.html
Myth #3- Granite is difficult to clean!
Also, not true. Anyone who works with or owns a granite counter top, knows it is very easy to take care of. Cleaning requires wiping with a good stone cleaner. There are even disinfectant cleaners now available for both granite and solid surfaces. ISI members provide complete cleaning instructions with all counter top we sell and install.
What to look for:
Now that you have decided on granite it is now time to visit the shop and choose your counter top. As we mentioned not all granite is the same and you should look at the slab or slabs that your granite counter top will be fabricated from. The following are some tips that should help avoid any problems.
SLAB SELECTION
Your new granite counter top will be made from a slab of granite. A slab is a large rectangular piece of stone that your counter top will be cut from. Slabs come in various sizes and basically two thickness(3/4 and 1/1/4 inches).
Once you have selected the type of granite you like, then you will need to examine the slab very carefully. Look for imperfections, such as nicks, pits, etc. Some of these imperfections can be filled Check to make sure the granite is not scratched.
If we already have your template made, we will take the template and place it on the slab. This will give you a real good idea on how the counter top will look. If there are any unusual natural flaws, the template may be arranged so that these flaws are not on the counter top when complete. Now is the time to discover these flaws, not when the counter top is already cut.
Things to discuss with us before the slab is cut.
There are several things you need to discuss with before the slab is cut.
Seams: How thick will the seams be? A seam is where two pieces of stone meet. An extremely wide seam will be unsightly. Seams should be no wider than 1/8 of an inch.
Our shop will place the seams in areas that will provide full support of your new stone countertop.
Cabinets: Before we can measure or template your countertops, the cabinet installer must have the cabinets set and leveled. This is the responsibility of the cabinet installer.
Sinks, cook tops and fixtures. Before your counter top is fabricated it is important to have your sink, cook top, etc and all the fixtures you plan on using. Once we cut the openings for the fixtures and appliance it is too late. Even if a template is available, many times the fixtures and appliances will change and the template will not work. The only way to avoid this is to have the actual sink, cook top and fixtures available.
Door Pulls and cabinet hardware: It is important that the cabinet’s door pulls and hardware are installed. The reason for this is to make sure that the pulls are easily accessible when the counter tops is installed.
Overhangs: If you plan on having a large overhang on any of the counter tops there is a limit as to how much the counter tops can overhang without any additional support. Your fabricator should be able to guide you on the proper overhang limits. For overhangs larger than those recommend you should have them properly supported to withstand a persons weight. This means placing metal or wood brackets under the counter top.
Installation of your new counter tops:
There are also several things you will need to discuss with us about the installation of your counter tops. Of course this is best done before the counter tops is installed.
Here is what we will discuss with you that will make a smooth installation:
Fixture installation: Normally the installation of the fixtures is performed by a plumber. Most plumbers are professionals and know what they are doing, however many plumbers are not familiar with stone. The number one problem with installation of fixtures is the use of plumber’s putty. Plumbers putty is used on the fixtures to help seal them. Plumbers putty will also stain very easily. Make sure to tell the plumber to use a non-staining putty. Once the counter tops is stained with plumber’s putty it is very difficult to remove.
Acceptable repairs: Many times during fabrication or installation the stone may chip. It is common practice to repair these chips with a polymer type filler. This is considered acceptable by the stone industry as long as the repair does not effect the structural integrity of the stone and that the color of the repair does not detract from the appearance of the stone. Remember stone is a product of nature and it may have naturally occurring holes, chips, etc.
Fred Hueston is a nationally known stone expert and is the founder of The National Training Center for Stone & Masonry Trades and Stone University
Friday, November 2, 2007
OSHA and Stone Fabrication
By Frederick M. Hueston
If you haven’t had the pleasure or should I say the displeasure of an OSHA inspector knocking at your shops door, be warned, it will eventually happen. OSHA, otherwise known as the Occupational Safety and Health Administration is starting to pull surprises inspections on many stone and solid surface shops across the US. My phone rings on a daily basis with calls from frantic shop owners who are have been inspected and in many cases have been fined heavily for OSHA violations.
This article is intended to help you get your shop ready for an inspection as well as explain the what happens when Mr. OSHA shows up at your door. Of course I can’t include everything that an OSHA inspector will look for but I can point out some of the top violations and problems that occur with an inspection.
Who is OSHA and why do they make inspections?
The following is a quote directly from OSHA, which explains the reason for these inspections:
Under the Occupational Safety and Health Act of 1970 (the Act), the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) is authorized to conduct workplace inspections and
investigations to determine whether employers are complying with standards issued by the agency for safe and healthful workplaces. OSHA also enforces Section 5(a)(1) of the Act, known as the “General Duty Clause,” which requires that every working man and woman must be provided with a safe and healthful workplace.
Can an OSHA inspector just show up without an appointment and do I have to let them in?
Yes, they usually do show up without any notice whatsoever. The first thing an OSHA inspector will do is show you his/her credentials. He will then explain why your facility was chosen for an inspection, the scope of the inspection, and the standards that apply.
At this point feel free to ask the OSHA inspector where you can get a copy of the standards that apply. This will not delay the inspection process, but will give you some ammo later if you need it.
Next he will ask for an employee, owner or whoever is responsible for compliance to accompany him/her during the inspection process.
Do you have to let the OSHA inspector in? Yes, you do. If you don’t you are looking for trouble. You want to be as cooperative as possible. Be polite and don’t argue with the inspector. There will be plenty of time for that later.
What Will the OSHA inspector be looking for during the inspection?
The OSHA inspector observes safety and health conditions and practices; consults with employees privately, if necessary; takes photos, videotapes, and instrument readings; examines records; collects air samples; measures noise levels; surveys existing engineering controls; and monitors employee exposure to toxic fumes, gases, and dusts. He may also require employees to wear dust collection monitors for a period of time.
What Specifically will the OSHA inspector be looking for?
OSHA and its inspectors are sticklers for recording keeping . The following is a quote directly from one of OSHA’s documents:
OSHA places special importance on posting and recordkeeping requirements. The compliance officer will inspect records of deaths, injuries, and illnesses that the
employer is required to keep. He or she will check to see that a copy of the totals from the last page of OSHA Form Number 300 are posted as required and that the
OSHA workplace poster (OSHA 3165), which explains employees’ safety and health rights, is prominently displayed. Where records of employee exposure to toxic
substances and harmful physical agents are required, the compliance officer will examine them for compliance with the recordkeeping requirements. The compliance officer also requests a copy of the employer’s Hazard Communication Program. Under
OSHA’s Hazard Communication Standard, employers must establish a written, comprehensive communication program that includes provisions for container labeling, material safety data sheets, and an employee training program. The program must contain a list of the hazardous chemicals in each work area and the means the employer will use to inform employees of the hazards associated with these chemicals.
What happens next?
Once the inspection is complete the OSHA inspector will have a closing conference where he/she will go over everything found in during the inspection: The following is a summary of what the OSHA inspector will do during this conference:
The compliance officer gives the employer and all other parties involved a copy of Employer Rights and Responsibilities Following an OSHA Inspection (OSHA
3000) for their review and discussion. The compliance officer discusses with the employer all unsafe or unhealthful conditions observed during the
inspection and indicates all apparent violations for which he or she may issue or recommend a citation and a proposed penalty. The compliance officer will not indicate any specific proposed penalties but will inform the employer
of appeal rights.
What kind of fines can I expect?
These will all depends on what the OSHA inspector finds as well as other factors. The following is a summary of the fines that can be expected:
These are the types of violations that may be cited and
the penalties that may be proposed:
• Other-Than-Serious Violation—A violation that
has a direct relationship to job safety and health, but
probably would not cause death or serious physical
harm. OSHA may assess a penalty from $0 to $1,000
for each violation. The agency may adjust a penalty for
an other-than-serious violation downward by as much
as 95 percent, depending on the employer’s good
faith (demonstrated efforts to comply with the Act),
history of previous violations, and size of business.2
• Serious Violation—A violation where there is a
substantial probability that death or serious physical
harm could result. OSHA assesses the penalty for a
serious violation from $1,500 to $7,000 depending
on the gravity of the violation. OSHA may adjust a
penalty for a serious violation downward based on the
employer’s good faith, history of previous violations,
and size of business.
• Willful Violation—A violation that the employer
intentionally and knowingly commits. The employer is
aware that a hazardous condition exists, knows that the
condition violates a standard or other obligation of the
Act, and makes no reasonable effort to eliminate it.
OSHA may propose penalties of up to $70,000 for each
willful violation. The minimum willful penalty is $5,000.
An employer who is convicted in a criminal proceeding
of a willful violation of a standard that has resulted in
the death of an employee may be fined up to $250,000
(or $500,000 if the employer is a corporation) or
imprisoned up to 6 months, or both. A second conviction
doubles the possible term of imprisonment.
• Repeated Violation—A violation of any standard,
regulation, rule, or order where, upon reinspection, a
substantially similar violation is found and the original
citation has become a final order. Violations can bring a
fine or up to $70,000 for each such violation within the
previous 3 years. To calculate repeated violations,
OSHA adjusts the initial penalty for the size and then
multiplies by a factor of 2, 5, or 10 depending on the
size of the business.
• Failure-to-Abate—Failure to correct a prior violation
may bring a civil penalty of up to $7,000 for each day
3 For more information, see United States Code Annotated,
Title 18, Crimes and Criminal Procedures 3331 to 4120,
West Publishing Company, St. Paul, MN, 1991, pp. 53–54.
that the violation continues beyond the prescribed
abatement date.
Additional violations for which OSHA may issue citations
and proposed penalties are as follows:
• Falsifying records, reports, or applications can, upon
conviction, bring a criminal fine of $10,000 or up to
6 months in jail, or both.
• Violating posting requirements may bring a civil penalty
of $7,000.
• Assaulting a compliance officer or otherwise resisting,
opposing, intimidating, or interfering with a compliance
officer in the performance of his or her duties is a
criminal offense and is subject to a fine of not more than
$5,000 and imprisonment for not more than 3 years.
Citations and penalty procedures may differ somewhat
in states with their own occupational safety and health
programs.
Can I Appeal the findings?
Yes, you can and you should. The following are some guidelines for the appeal process:
Within 15 working days of receiving a citation, an employer who wishes to contest must submit a written objection to OSHA. The OSHA Area Director forwards the objection to
the Occupational Safety and Health Review Commission (OSHRC), which operates independently of OSHA. When issued a citation and notice of proposed penalty,
an employer may request an informal meeting with OSHA’s Area Director to discuss the case. OSHA encourages employers to have informal conferences with the Area
Director if the employer has issues arising from the inspection that he or she wishes to discuss or provide additional information. The Area Director is authorized to
enter into settlement agreements that revise citations and penalties to avoid prolonged legal disputes and result in speedier hazard abatement. (Alleged violations contested
before OSHRC do not need to be corrected until the contest is ruled upon by OSHRC.)
I know many shop owners who have greatly reduced fines and penalties through the appeal process. In my opinion, it is worth the effort.
Can I avoid an OSHA inspection?
The answer to this question is yes and no. OSHA does have a program known as volunteer compliance. Here is how the program works. You simply call OSHA and tell them that you would like to request an inspection so that you can find out what you need to do to be compliant. Under the OSHA rules they usually cannot fine you for what they find, however if you don’t remedy the findings then you could get fined. I know several shops that have opted for this program and have been successful. Its better to call them first than to have them pull a surprise inspection that could be costly. On the other hand if you are not prepared to comply then called OSHA is like calling the IRS to tell them you don’t think you paid enough taxes.
Some Specifics
Unfortunately OSHA’s rules and guidelines are not specific for the stone, engineered stone or solid surface industry. Sometimes these rules are not clear. However the following are some specific issues you should address in your shop.
MSDS- you will not only need MSDS for all the glues, solvents etc, but you will also need an MSDS for any stone, engineered stone or solid surface product you have in and around your shop. These MSDS are available from the manufacturer. In the case of natural stone, such as granite, marble and limestone, ISI( International Stone Institute) has them on their web site.
Storage of Solvents and Chemicals- I am surprised at how many shops store their glues and solvents on a bench or on a storage shelf. Even worse, I have seen glues and solvents next to propane torches in use. All glues and solvents should be stored in a fireproof cabinet. These cabinets can be purchased from most safety supply stores as well as Grainger, etc.
Grinder and Polisher Guards- This is an area that most shops get busted on. While most grinders and saws require a blade guard, it is unclear if polishers require one. I have seen many shops fine do the fact that had no guards on polishers. Well, most of us in the industry know that it is nearly impossible to operate a polisher with a guard on it. There are several people including myself who are working with OSHA to try and get a variance on this rule.
Silica Dust- granite and engineered stones contain quartz, which will produce silica borne dust. Silica dust is harmful and will eventually cause Silicosis, which can result in lung damage and death. OSHA is a stickler for compliance in this area and is one area that many shops fail. For this reason, if you do any dry cutting you need to not only have your employees where protective gear such as respirators etc. You also need an air entrapment system. On way around cutting dry is to do everything wet. This way the silica dust is contained and dust is not an issue. However, I know of at least two shops who have high silica dust despite that fact that they did everything wet. The reason is that they failed to hose the floor down on a daily basis. Once the water that contains the silica dries, simply simply walking across the floor can kick up the dust.
Slab storage- one of the areas where OSHA has busted stone and E stone shops is the way there slabs are stored. Many A frames are overloaded, unbalanced and are in jeopardy of falling over. There has been many cases where slabs have fallen over on workers and customers resulting in not only injury but also death. The one area I see with almost all the shops that I have visited is that none of their slabs are tied down. I would recommend that all your slabs be stored on well constructed A frames or slab racks ant that each A frame be equipped with straps to tie the slabs down so they don’t accidentally fall over.
Hard Hats- OK, a show of hands…how many shops have their employees wear hard hats when lifting slabs off an A frame? I would guess almost no one. If you lift a slab high off the ground with a clamp and a forklift, hardhats are required safety equipment.
No HAZCOM Program-most shops are unaware that OSHA requires you to have a Hazcom Program.
OSHA’s Hazard Communication Standard (HCS) is based on a
simple concept—that employees have both a need and a right to
know the hazards and identities of the chemicals they are exposed to
when working. They also need to know what protective measures
are available to prevent adverse effects from occurring. OSHA
designed the HCS to provide employees with the information they
need to know.
Knowledge acquired under the HCS will help employers provide
safer workplaces for their employees. When employees have information
about the chemicals being used, they can take steps to reduce
exposures, substitute less hazardous materials, and establish proper
work practices. These efforts will help prevent the occurrence of
work-related illnesses and injuries caused by chemicals.
The HCS addresses the issues of evaluating and communicating
chemical hazard information to workers. Evaluation of chemical
hazards involves a number of technical concepts, and is a process
that requires the professional judgment of experienced experts.
That’s why the HCS is designed so that employers who simply use
chemicals—rather than produce or import them—are not required to
evaluate the hazards of those chemicals. Hazard determination is the
responsibility of the manufacturers and importers of the chemicals,
who then must provide the hazard information to employers that
purchase their products
Employers that do not produce or import chemicals need only
focus on those parts of the rule that deal with establishing a workplace
program and communicating information to their workers.
This publication is a general guide for such employers to help them
determine what the HCS requires. It does not supplant or substitute
for the regulatory provisions, but rather provides a simplified outline
of the steps an average employer would follow to meet those
requirements.
HAZCOM programs can be purchased from many sources. The National Training Center for Stone & Masonry Trades has a custom made HAZCOM program for shops in this industry. Go to http://www.ntc-stone.com/ or call 800-841-7199 for further information.
NO safety Retainers on air tools- OSHA requires that all air tools have safety clips or retainers on all air tools to prevent them from becoming accidentally disconnected. I have rarely seen a shop where safety retainers are installed on air connections.
Improper Grounding of electrical Tools OSHA requires that all electric tools be approved double insulated or properly grounded. I have seen many electric tools sold in our industry that do not meet this requirement.
Hearing Protection- If your shop exceeds the permissible noise exposure than OSHA will require you to have a hearing conservation program which will include having employees tested on a regular bases, as well as providing the proper hearing protection and training your employees on the dangers of high noise levels.
Poor or improper Lighting- OSHA can also cite you for not having the proper lighting in your shop as well as your office. OSHA publishes a table, which shows Minimum Illumination Intensities in Foot-candles various areas in the shop.
Of course there are many other safety issues that you should look at in and around your shop. Cords across the floor, GFI’s ., door ways clear, safety goggles and respirators etc.
It’s only a matter of time before OSHA comes knocking at your door, so be prepared.
some of the quotes used in this article come from OSHA documents that are public domain and are not copyrighted.
Fred Hueston is founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades and Stone University.
http://www.ntc-stone.com/
http://www.stoneuniveristy.org/
Are Floor Strippers Safe?
Are Floor Strippers Safe
By Frederick M. Hueston
Almost all schools systems and public buildings apply acrylic finishes to there , terrazzo and stone flooring to keep them shiny and looking clean. Often these finishes have to be striped off and a new finish applied. The strippers that are used to remove these acrylic coatings often contain hazardous chemicals that are harmful to humans, animals and the environment. The following information will explore how dangerous these strippers are and offer an alternative.
I examined the Material Safety Data Sheets(MSDS) of over 20 popular strippers used to remove acrylic floor coatings. I found that there are several common ingredients found which are the following:
Monoethanolamine
Butoxyethanol
Ethanolamine
Ethylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether
Sodium Hydroxide
I next examined the dangerous of these ingredients
Butoxyethanol
Butoxyethanol goes by several names including ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol butyl either, ethylene glycol n-butyl ether, Butyl Cellosolve, butyl glycol, butyl oxitol,glycol butyl ether, Dowanol EB, Gafcol EB, poly-solv EB, and Ektasolve EB. If you see any of these ingredients on an MSDS for the stripper you are using you are dealing with Butoyethanol.
Butoxyethanol is used in many products other that floor strippers, including paints, varnishes, lacquers, paint thinners, agricultural products, herbicides, silicon caulks, cutting oils, fabric dyes and inks and household cleaners and even in some floor cleaners.
Butoyethanol is a dangerous chemical in many ways. It can pass into the air from water and soil as a vapor. This means that the vapors are emitted when you mix your strippers in water and apply them to the floor.
Butoxyethanol is very harmful to humans and has been shown in laboratory testing to cause the following:
Irritation of the nose and eyes
Headaches
A metallic Taste
Vomiting
Breathing problems
Low blood pressure
Lowered levels of hemoglobin
Blood in the urine
Metabolic acidosis
Birth Defects
Kidney and liver damage
Butoxyethanol and the Environment
Butoxyethanol can be absorbed by soil and can make its way into the water supply.
The warnings on many labels of floor stripper containing Butoxyethanol say the following:
Avoid breathing vapor or mist.Avoid contact with eyes, skin and clothing.Keep container closed.Use only with adequate ventilation.Wash thoroughly after handling.Keep away from heat and flame.
Do you want this harmful chemical used in your school or building?
Monoethanolamine
Monoethanolamine is another common chemical found in strippers.
Monoethanolamine also goes by several names such as Colamine, Glycinol, Olamine, Ethanolamine, 2-Aminoethanol, 2-Hydroxyethylamine, beta-Ethanolamine and beta-Hydroxyethylamine.
Some of the potential health effects include the following:
Extremely harmful to the eyes.
Harmful to lungs, skin.
Tissue damage can occur around mucus membranes
Can cause burns on the skin
Maybe toxic to Kidneys, Lungs, liver and central nervous system.
Monoethanolamine in also combustible.and corrosive
Harmful to animals and the environment.
Monoethanolamine can produce very harmful byproducts due to degradation in the environment.
Sodium Hydroxide
Another chemical found in many strippers is Sodium Hydroxide. Sodium Hydroxide
Is commonly known as lye. Any one who has ever worked with this knows it can easily burn you skin, not to mention what it can due to your eyes and mouth. It is classified as a poison and is very corrosive.
Since it is a poison it is harmful to animals and fish.
Conclusions and Alternatives
As you can see the common chemicals found in numerous stripper formulas are not safe for humans or the environment and cannot be classified as a sustainable practice if using them.
The good news is there are alternatives to these chemicals.
Acrylic coating on terrazzo and stone flooring can be removed mechanically with abrasives using no chemicals other than water.
Many Chemical companies are manufacturing strippers that are safe to work with and are Green Certified.
Fred Hueston is the founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades and Stone University. http://www.stoneuniversity.org/
Just Say No To Rugs-Danger Under Foot
By Frederick M. Hueston
You just installed brand new wall to wall carpeting in your home or office and you breathe in that new carpet smell. You step on that plush carpet and feel comfortable and happy that you have a fresh, new carpet. What you don't know is that new carpet smell is emitting hazardous chemical vapors in the air which include toluene, benzene, formaldehyde, ethyl benzene, styrene, acetone and the list goes on and on. There is even carcinogenic chemicals such as p-Dichlorobenzene in that fresh new carpet. These are the hazardous chemicals found in new carpet but there are other harmful chemicals that can be found in the adhesive that is used to install them as well as stain protectors, fire retardants etc. The next time you lie on your carpet to watch TV or have your little son or daughter crawling around think about the chemicals you are being exposed too.
Now you're convinced not to buy new carpeting and you decide to keep your old carpet and just have it cleaned instead. The hazards found in old carpet are as bad or worse than new carpet. There are many chemicals that have been banned in carpet production that your old carpet may contain. Dust mites, dirt and who knows what can be found in older carpeting. Do you ever spray your house for bugs? If you do these pesticides will accumulate in your carpet and will be trapped in the fibers. In addition smoke and other odors can become trapped in the fibers. If you have a pet and it has fleas, guess where you'll also find not only the fleas but their eggs as well.
Cleaning your carpet will not eliminate all these harmful chemicals and substances. There is some new research that is linking certain carpet cleaning chemicals to certain diseases such as Kawasaki's disease. There are even some organizations that are linking carpet to allergies, fibromyolgia, etc
These warnings are not just my opinion but many non profit organizations and companies have similar warnings. Here is a brief list of these organizations:
Environment & Human Health Inc. (EHHI)
The Citizens for Safe Carpet
Environmental Access Research NetworkAmerican Lung Association Even the Center for Disease Control(CDC) posts warnings about the use of carpeting, including the fact that carpet can harbor toxic molds(www.cdc.gov)
How do you avoid all these problems. Its simple..remove your carpet and install hard flooring such as stone or ceramic. Marble, granite, limestone or terrazzo make excellent, safe floor. They don't trap hazardous chemicals, nor do they emit any harmful gases. Carpeting will not last forever, however stone flooring will last for over 100 years if properly cared for.
The next time you consider purchasing that new carpet, do some research and check out the additional resources below and you'll be running to the stone store instead of the carpet store.
Additional reading sources
http://www.ecomall.com/greenshopping/abscarpet.htm
http://www.checnet.org/healthehouse/education/articles-detail.asp?Main_ID=443
http://www.checnet.org/healthehouse/education/articles-detail.asp?Main_ID=442
http://www.holisticmed.com/carpet/tc-points.txt
http://www.nontoxic.com/purewoolcarpets/whattoavoid.html
Fred Hueston is the founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades and Stone University. www.ntc-stone.com , http://www.stoneuniversity.org/