How to make a slippery floor safe
There are many treatments that can be purchased and applied to a tile surface to make it slip resistant. These treatments fall into two categories: Coatings or treatments which chemically or physically alter the surface of the tile.
Coatings:
Coatings can be waxes, acrylics or other commercially available products. The coating places a thin layer of material on the surface of the tile. The tile will than be as slippery as the coating itself. Warning: not all coatings provide slip resistance. In fact some coatings will make a floor more slippery. Before specifying a coating, contact the manufacturer of the coating and ask for slip resistance test data. Many of the coating manufacturers are very familiar with slip resistance. Make sure the coating can be used on the tile surface you are using. Certain coatings will not adhere to polished stone or porcelain and require coatings specified for these surfaces.
Treatments:
There are now available special treatments that can be applied to the surface of tile to render it slip resistant. These treatments are primarily hydrofluoric acid. The acid attacks the surface of the tile and creates microscopic holes. This is what is typically called etching of the surface. This process works effectively on many surfaces but can decrease the service life of the tile. Once the surface is treated with this method maintenance will increase. Since these treatments contain a very dangerous acid, it should only be applied by trained individuals. Contact your local tile supply store for recommended contractors.
The issue of slip-resistance is of major concern in the US. Lawsuits are on the increase as con artists continue their search for the big payoff. Large hotels, banks and other big corporate building owners are their main targets but they are also targeting the small business. The corner food store and the local gas station are not exempt from these flim flam artists.
This is not to say that there are not times when a floor surface is not unsafe. Many factors contribute to the slipperiness of the floor. Water, grease, oil and debris scatted on the floor all can contribute to slipperiness. The competent architect and designer cannot control what happens to the floor after its installed but he/she can get it started properly.
How to Minimize Slip/Fall Accidents
Although it will be impossible to prevent all slip/fall accidents there are several precautionary procedures that building owners, cleaning companies and others can take to minimize risk. The following is some suggestions and is not intended to replace legal advise if an accident occurs:
1. Pay attention to areas where water and/or spills occur. A walk off mat should be placed inside the entrance of doors during a rain storm. When floor tile gets wet, the COF* may decrease causing a fall. Mats should be placed prior to the first drop of rain. Pay attention to areas where food is served or carried. Foods and drinks can create an ice like condition on the floor and any spills should be picked up as soon as they occur.
2. If the floor tile is maintained by stripping and waxing, this procedure should be done at night when there is no one around to fall. Daily wet mopping should also be performed at night during off hours.
*Coefficient of Friction
3. Always place wet floor signs in all areas you may be working in. This applies for all times of the day or night. It is also a good idea to train your floor cleaning personnel to warn people who may walk across the floor that it might be slippery.
4. Keep accurate records. It is surprising how many cleaning companies fail to keep any record of maintenance on a tile surface. Accurate record keeping says that you are responsible and that you generally care about safety. Include in your records the following information:
* Name brands of all products used on the floor
* Procedures that are performed on the floor and how often. Be specific.
* Who performed these procedures.
It is a good idea to keep a daily log of the maintenance procedure. Designate one individual to keep track of the log and have him perform routine inspections of the floor and record what he found during his inspections. If a legal suit is filed this information will be quite helpful in proving you are competent and hopefully not at fault.
5. Get slip/fall insurance. Every building owner should carry slip/fall insurance. Some of the products used on the floor will also carry slip/fall insurance. This insurance is designed to protect the coating manufacturer and you should not rely entirely on theirs. Get your own policy.
What to do when some falls:
O my, someone just slipped and fell, what should you do?
1. Treat the victim with kindness and courtesy. Do not administer medical treatment unless you happen to be qualified to. If necessary call an ambulance. Also offer to call their family. Show care and concern.
2. Look at the victim’s clothing and especially his/her shoes. Take notice of how worn they are and the overall condition. Once the victim leaves, record this information in your log or on a separate report. This is important, remember it takes two surfaces to slip, if the victim is wearing worn shoes part of the blame may be placed on their neglect.
3. Look carefully at the area where the victim fell. Is there water, grease, a banana peel? Record in the log any thing you find.
4. Did any one else see the fall. If so, take a statement from them. Record this in a special report and get their name, address and phone number.
5. Record the time and location of the fall. Pay special attention to the weather conditions. Was it raining, snowy or what.
6. Did you notice how the victim walked. Did he/she stumble or appear as if they were under the influence of alcohol or drugs. If possible record their behavior and how they walked or ran before the fall.
7. If you have a camera, take pictures of the victim and the area where they fell.
8. Fill out an accident report and do not leave out any detail. Use a separate sheet of paper if necessary.
Following the above suggestions will help considerably when involved in a slip/fall case. Your attorney will love you for it.
One Final Word
The legislation and rules concerning COF and slip/fall can and probably will change. It is a good idea to consult with an expert in slip/fall and to keep up to date with any new rule, law or recommendation that may sneak up
COF-Coefficient of Friction
Slip resistance is measured by the ratio of forces required to move one surface over the other under a given vertical force. In other words, it takes two surfaces to determine slip resistance. The floor tile is one surface and the bottom of ones shoe is the other surface. This ratio is what we call the coefficient of friction(COF).
COF can be measured in two different ways and can cause confusion amongst those unfamiliar with the science of slip resistance. When the COF is measured from a resting position it is called the “Static COF”. When it is measured when the surfaces are in relative motion it is called the “Dynamic COF”. The dynamic COF is very difficult to measure and almost all portable and laboratory meters measure only the static COF. It is important to know this difference since you will see both measurements in the literature. Most measuring devices(Slip meters) will refer to the static COF. The measurements you will find in the literature and those discussed here will be the Static COF. A COF of 0.5 is considered to be a slip resistance surface. The higher the COF the less slippery the surface. It is possible to have too high a COF. In other words the surface can be too slip resistance and an individual would find it difficult to walk on.
How to Measure Slip Resistance
There are basically two types of machines that can measure static COF, Permanent laboratory models and portable field models commonly refer to as pull meters. The most popular and widely accepted laboratory slip meter is the James Machine. The James Machine uses an 80 pound weight that is applied through an arm to a leather shoe placed on a panel. The panel and the leather shoe are moved horizontally. The distance the panel moves before slipping is measured and recorded on a chart and is the coefficient of friction. The James Machine was invented in 1940 and was the machine which established the 0.5 COF as the minimum for slip resistance. This standard was accepted in 1953 by the Federal Trade Commission . Many still consider the James Machine as the only true slip tester.
There are also many portable slip meters on the market which claim to measure the static COF. The American Society for Testing and Materials(ASTM) recognizes several portable meters. When purchasing these meters make sure they comply with ASTM C-1028 which is the recognized slip test for tile flooring. For further information on slip meters contact ASTM at the following address: 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187
Written by
Frederick M. Hueston
The National Training Center for Stone & Masonry Trades
828-301-9796
fhueston@aol.com
www.ntc-stone.com
Thursday, December 6, 2007
Epoxy vs Polyester for Stone Laminations
Epoxy vs. Polyester. Are You Using The Right Adhesive?
Frederick M. Hueston
I was sitting in my office when I received a call from a hotel manager about a swimming pool coping that was falling apart. I asked him what was falling apart and he told me that the stone was falling into the pool. I got in my truck and made my way over to the hotel and discovered that the swimming pool had a travertine coping and all the laminations where failing and falling off. I examined the laminations closely and discovered that Polyester was used in the laminations.
Several weeks later I got a similar call from a home owner who had a similar problem but this time the laminations where failing on her new granite countertop. Again, upon inspection, the adhesive used was polyester.
How many of you use polyester for your laminations and other applications where you are bonding two pieces of stone together? If you do, your laminations are prone to failure.
There are many choices when it comes to the selection of adhesives and it can get very confusing. The following is a brief explanation of the two most popular adhesives in the stone industry and a guide as to where to use what type:
Epoxy or Polyester?
Polyester
Polyesters use a hardening agent to catalyze the curing reaction. Most polyesters use a peroxide hardening agent.
Of all the adhesives available polyester is the least inexpensive but also has the weakest bond strength. It also has a very high shrinkage rate and the highest water absorption amongst all the adhesives. It is also very prone to UV degradation and will crack and become brittle.
For this reason polyester should never be used for laminations or for repairs in wet area or used outdoors.
Polyesters are good for small repairs for indoor stone applications such as filling and seams or in applications where bond strength is of no concern. The bond strength of polyesters is less than 500 PSI.
Epoxy
Epoxies are two parts labeled part A and Part B. Most epoxies are mixed at a ratio of 2/1 but some are 1/1.
Of all the adhesives used in the stone industry epoxies have the strongest bond. Bond strengths can exceed 2000 PSI. It has a lower shrinkage rate than polyester and is more UV stable with a lower water absorption rate.
It is clear that if you want great adhesion, epoxy is the stronger adhesive. I always recommend using epoxy for laminations and rodding and anywhere else you want the stone to stick and not fall apart.
A little experiment.
Here is a crude test that I perform when testing adhesives for bond strength.
Take two pieces of stone with the polished sides facing each other. Place some adhesive on the polish faces and clamp them together. Let the clamped pieces set overnight. The next morning take a hammer and try to break them apart. A weak glue, such as polyester will break clean, leaving the face of the stone intact. A strong adhesive such as an epoxy will be so strong that the face of the stone will spall off. This indicates that the adhesive bond is stronger than the natural bond of the stone.
Adhesive Grades:
All adhesives are available in various viscosities ranging from low to high. The following are the most popular choices
Knife Grade- Consistency is similar to spackling putty or creamy peanut butter.
Flowing Grade- Consistency of a motor oil
Penetrating Grade- Consistency of water
Super Penetrating Grade- Consistency of a solvent such as mineral spirits or paint thinner
Generally knife grades are used for repairs for fills that are over 1/16 of an inch wide. Flowing grades are used for repairs smaller than 1/16th and for laminations and rodding.
Penetrating and super penetrating grades are rarely used by fabricators but are used for resining stone and for applications where an adhesive is need to penetrate very small pores.
Adhesive Colors
Today’s adhesives are available in a number of colors however there may times when you need to add coloring. Many of the adhesive manufacturers have tints that you can use. If you in a pinch I have found that artist oil colors work well for most polyesters, however for epoxies you will need to use tints designed specifically for them.
General Properties
Temperature
All adhesives are sensitive to temperature and humidity. This means that cure times will vary. Adhesives will cure faster with increasing temperatures and slower at cooler temperatures.
Temperature will also affect the viscosity. Higher temperature will thin the adhesive.
Tip: There are several heated dispensers for epoxies that work very well for faster cure times and easier flowing.
Cure Time
The general rule of thumb for most adhesives is the slower the cure time the stronger the bond. Epoxies with a 7 hour cure time are going to be much stronger than an epoxy with a five minute cure time.
If too much hardener is added to polyester you will increase the cure time but you will reduce the bond strength.
UV exposure
Nothing is completely UV proof; however epoxies are more UV resistant than polyesters and are the adhesive of choice for outdoor exposure.
Moisture
Polyester is very sensitive to moisture and for that reason it should be avoided in wet areas such as showers. Epoxy has a much higher tolerance for moisture and is the adhesive of choice in wet areas.
When using polyester you must make sure that the stone is completely dry. Epoxies can tolerate some moisture.
Polyester
The stone must be completely dry
If you do not thoroughly mix the resin and hardener it will probably cure anyway
You can use most colors to tint
Many varieties available
Good adhesion when prepared properly
Can easily be used for patching
Stone surface must be abraded before sticking
Should NOT be used for exterior or in moist locations
Quick curing time (normally 10 minutes to 1 hour depending on the product and the weather)
Epoxy
Stone can be a little moist
Resin and hardener must be thoroughly mixed to cure
You should use only colors made for epoxy
Not as many varieties available
Great adhesions when prepared properly
Not as easily used for patching
Stone surface should be abraded, but it will stick to a smooth surface also
CAN be used for exterior and moist locations
Slow curing time (normally 7 hours depending on the product and the weather)
Use Chart
Laminations- Epoxy
Indoor repair- Polyester
Rodding- Epoxy
Outdoor Repair- Epoxy
Mending- Epoxy
Seams- Polyester
Attachments- Epoxy
Mr. Hueston is the founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades (www.ntc-stone.com) and Stone University (stoneuniversity.org).
Frederick M. Hueston
I was sitting in my office when I received a call from a hotel manager about a swimming pool coping that was falling apart. I asked him what was falling apart and he told me that the stone was falling into the pool. I got in my truck and made my way over to the hotel and discovered that the swimming pool had a travertine coping and all the laminations where failing and falling off. I examined the laminations closely and discovered that Polyester was used in the laminations.
Several weeks later I got a similar call from a home owner who had a similar problem but this time the laminations where failing on her new granite countertop. Again, upon inspection, the adhesive used was polyester.
How many of you use polyester for your laminations and other applications where you are bonding two pieces of stone together? If you do, your laminations are prone to failure.
There are many choices when it comes to the selection of adhesives and it can get very confusing. The following is a brief explanation of the two most popular adhesives in the stone industry and a guide as to where to use what type:
Epoxy or Polyester?
Polyester
Polyesters use a hardening agent to catalyze the curing reaction. Most polyesters use a peroxide hardening agent.
Of all the adhesives available polyester is the least inexpensive but also has the weakest bond strength. It also has a very high shrinkage rate and the highest water absorption amongst all the adhesives. It is also very prone to UV degradation and will crack and become brittle.
For this reason polyester should never be used for laminations or for repairs in wet area or used outdoors.
Polyesters are good for small repairs for indoor stone applications such as filling and seams or in applications where bond strength is of no concern. The bond strength of polyesters is less than 500 PSI.
Epoxy
Epoxies are two parts labeled part A and Part B. Most epoxies are mixed at a ratio of 2/1 but some are 1/1.
Of all the adhesives used in the stone industry epoxies have the strongest bond. Bond strengths can exceed 2000 PSI. It has a lower shrinkage rate than polyester and is more UV stable with a lower water absorption rate.
It is clear that if you want great adhesion, epoxy is the stronger adhesive. I always recommend using epoxy for laminations and rodding and anywhere else you want the stone to stick and not fall apart.
A little experiment.
Here is a crude test that I perform when testing adhesives for bond strength.
Take two pieces of stone with the polished sides facing each other. Place some adhesive on the polish faces and clamp them together. Let the clamped pieces set overnight. The next morning take a hammer and try to break them apart. A weak glue, such as polyester will break clean, leaving the face of the stone intact. A strong adhesive such as an epoxy will be so strong that the face of the stone will spall off. This indicates that the adhesive bond is stronger than the natural bond of the stone.
Adhesive Grades:
All adhesives are available in various viscosities ranging from low to high. The following are the most popular choices
Knife Grade- Consistency is similar to spackling putty or creamy peanut butter.
Flowing Grade- Consistency of a motor oil
Penetrating Grade- Consistency of water
Super Penetrating Grade- Consistency of a solvent such as mineral spirits or paint thinner
Generally knife grades are used for repairs for fills that are over 1/16 of an inch wide. Flowing grades are used for repairs smaller than 1/16th and for laminations and rodding.
Penetrating and super penetrating grades are rarely used by fabricators but are used for resining stone and for applications where an adhesive is need to penetrate very small pores.
Adhesive Colors
Today’s adhesives are available in a number of colors however there may times when you need to add coloring. Many of the adhesive manufacturers have tints that you can use. If you in a pinch I have found that artist oil colors work well for most polyesters, however for epoxies you will need to use tints designed specifically for them.
General Properties
Temperature
All adhesives are sensitive to temperature and humidity. This means that cure times will vary. Adhesives will cure faster with increasing temperatures and slower at cooler temperatures.
Temperature will also affect the viscosity. Higher temperature will thin the adhesive.
Tip: There are several heated dispensers for epoxies that work very well for faster cure times and easier flowing.
Cure Time
The general rule of thumb for most adhesives is the slower the cure time the stronger the bond. Epoxies with a 7 hour cure time are going to be much stronger than an epoxy with a five minute cure time.
If too much hardener is added to polyester you will increase the cure time but you will reduce the bond strength.
UV exposure
Nothing is completely UV proof; however epoxies are more UV resistant than polyesters and are the adhesive of choice for outdoor exposure.
Moisture
Polyester is very sensitive to moisture and for that reason it should be avoided in wet areas such as showers. Epoxy has a much higher tolerance for moisture and is the adhesive of choice in wet areas.
When using polyester you must make sure that the stone is completely dry. Epoxies can tolerate some moisture.
Polyester
The stone must be completely dry
If you do not thoroughly mix the resin and hardener it will probably cure anyway
You can use most colors to tint
Many varieties available
Good adhesion when prepared properly
Can easily be used for patching
Stone surface must be abraded before sticking
Should NOT be used for exterior or in moist locations
Quick curing time (normally 10 minutes to 1 hour depending on the product and the weather)
Epoxy
Stone can be a little moist
Resin and hardener must be thoroughly mixed to cure
You should use only colors made for epoxy
Not as many varieties available
Great adhesions when prepared properly
Not as easily used for patching
Stone surface should be abraded, but it will stick to a smooth surface also
CAN be used for exterior and moist locations
Slow curing time (normally 7 hours depending on the product and the weather)
Use Chart
Laminations- Epoxy
Indoor repair- Polyester
Rodding- Epoxy
Outdoor Repair- Epoxy
Mending- Epoxy
Seams- Polyester
Attachments- Epoxy
Mr. Hueston is the founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades (www.ntc-stone.com) and Stone University (stoneuniversity.org).
Friday, November 9, 2007
Resin Slabs..The Good, The Bad and The Ugly
Resined slabs: The Good, The Bad and The Ugly
by Frederick M. Hueston, Stone World Technical Editor
Q: Our shop has been getting a lot of resined slabs lately, and I am a little confused as to why slabs are resined to begin with. I would be interested to know why they are resined and what problems fabricators are having with these resined slabs?A: In the past few years, I have had many fabricators ask the same question. Of all the fabricators I have spoken with, some have no problem at all with resined slabs, while others are having nothing but problems. The following are some of the pros and cons of resined slabs. The following article is not intended to solve this problem or to render an opinion but to put forth arguments from both sides. In other words the good, the bad and the ugly.
The resining of stone slabs is not as new as some might think. Resining started back in the 1960s on marble and about 10 years ago with granite. Today, the resining of slabs is commonplace, and it is predicted that almost all stone slabs will soon be resined.
What is resining? The resining process uses epoxy resins for granites and polyesters for marble. There are several methods that are used to apply and cure the resin, from hand-spray applications to automated lines. The slabs are first honed and dried, and then the resin is applied. The slabs are then cured in heated ovens, and after the resin is cured, the slabs are sent to the polishing lines where they are polished. Some factories also apply a thin layer of wax to the surface after polishing to help protect the stone during shipping.
The Good The resining of slabs has allowed slab producers to eliminate lots of waste and sell slabs that would otherwise be rejected. Brittle materials can now be used due to the resining process, which helps hold the brittle material together like a glue.
Resined slabs are also less likely to become damaged during shipping.
Resining of slabs has also reduced the price of slabs, which is one reason the industry is seeing such a big growth in slab sales in recent years.
Resined slabs are also less porous, and many resined materials do not need to be sealed, since the resin acts as a sealer for the stone.
In addition, Filippo Emanuel of Tenax USA listed the following benefits in a recent article in Stone World (June 2003, page 100):
Several materials are naturally fractured and could not otherwise be sold or marketed even if they are superior in terms of color, durability and other qualities.
There is a growing tendency in producing thinner slabs to reduce transportation costs and open up new markets and different stone uses.
The waste from manufacturing slabs of particular materials (especially some marbles) could represent 35 to 40% of production, thus considerably increasing the cost of the remaining slabs.
Many different kinds of granites have natural micro-fissures that compromise the final polished effect, thus reducing the beauty of the material.
There are materials just too fragile to be polished, leaving no solution but to close down quarries.
Some granites have fissures that pass through the slab and considerably decrease the strength of the slabs and pose a hazard when used as outside paneling.
Limited reserves of a particular color of stone leave only the worst and more damaged veins to be quarried.
The Bad and The Ugly Over the past few years, several problems have arisen with resining slabs. The following are some of the problems that have been encountered:
1. FadingOne of the major complaints associated with some resined slabs is that the resins used are not UV resistant. I have heard of several fabricators who store their slabs outside for several months, and when they go to use them, they discover that the slabs have darkened. This is especially true of slabs that are covered. In one case, a slab of stone was partially covered with another section of stone. When that small section was removed, it was discovered that the portion of the slab that was not covered had darkened. This is the result of UV light reacting with the resin. The lesson to be learned here is not to store slabs outdoors in direct sunlight. This is especially true of light colored materials such as Giallo Veneziano and others.
However, Emanuel points out that there should be no resin on the surface of the slab. “If there is, it means that the manufacturer did not do a good job removing it,” he said. “That is when fabricators start having problems with darkening effects.” If done correctly, the resin is inside the cracks and the pits, but nowhere else.
An additional problem is with profiles. Several fabricators have had experiences with the profiled edge turning out lighter than the rest of the stone. “The problem with the edges is that the resin will darken the top of the slabs regardless of the UV,” Emanuel explained. “It is just the effect of the different reflection of the light when a material is imbibed with resin. When you cut the edge, there is no resin on the side — regardless of the UV exposure. That’s the reason why the edges are lighter.”
Over time, we have found that the edge will darken and match the face of the stone. A quick fix to this problem is to use a color enhancer to darken the edge.
2. Sealer interactionOur technical hotline has received several calls where impregnators have been applied to a resined stone, and the material clouds, discolors or fades. After testing several slabs and sealers, I have discovered that some solvent-based impregnators will react with the resin, causing it to break down and turn color, cloud or fade. This is a problem that is difficult to repair. We have found that the application of a color enhancer will sometimes hide this problem. My recommendation would be to use only water-based impregnators on resined slabs.
3. Polishing and refinishing problemsIn a recent countertop repair seminar, one of our students brought in a resined section of stone he wanted to try and refinish and polish. We discovered that this material had such a heavy application of resin that when he tried honing the top, the resin became gummy. Once the surface was cut and polished, it was very difficult to match the remaining surface of the stone. As of this writing, I have yet to find a solution to this problem other than to refinish and polish the entire slab so it all has the same polish.
Please keep in mind that that some of these problems may be the result of improper application and not necessarily the resin itself. Just like any other industry, quality control can be an issue, and sometimes a slab or two may slip by. This is why it is important to deal with reputable slab distributors and to carefully inspect each slab upon delivery.
Only time and history will tell if the resining process is good, bad or ugly. Of course, resin chemistry will most likely improve, as well as the application process. In the meantime, stone fabricators should be aware of these problems and learn to deal with them.
Fred Hueston is founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades, a successful marble and stone consulting and training company. He is recognized as a nationally known consultant and has written over 28 books on the subject. If you have any questions for The Technical Forum, please
e-mail Fred Hueston at fhueston@aol.com.
by Frederick M. Hueston, Stone World Technical Editor
Q: Our shop has been getting a lot of resined slabs lately, and I am a little confused as to why slabs are resined to begin with. I would be interested to know why they are resined and what problems fabricators are having with these resined slabs?A: In the past few years, I have had many fabricators ask the same question. Of all the fabricators I have spoken with, some have no problem at all with resined slabs, while others are having nothing but problems. The following are some of the pros and cons of resined slabs. The following article is not intended to solve this problem or to render an opinion but to put forth arguments from both sides. In other words the good, the bad and the ugly.
The resining of stone slabs is not as new as some might think. Resining started back in the 1960s on marble and about 10 years ago with granite. Today, the resining of slabs is commonplace, and it is predicted that almost all stone slabs will soon be resined.
What is resining? The resining process uses epoxy resins for granites and polyesters for marble. There are several methods that are used to apply and cure the resin, from hand-spray applications to automated lines. The slabs are first honed and dried, and then the resin is applied. The slabs are then cured in heated ovens, and after the resin is cured, the slabs are sent to the polishing lines where they are polished. Some factories also apply a thin layer of wax to the surface after polishing to help protect the stone during shipping.
The Good The resining of slabs has allowed slab producers to eliminate lots of waste and sell slabs that would otherwise be rejected. Brittle materials can now be used due to the resining process, which helps hold the brittle material together like a glue.
Resined slabs are also less likely to become damaged during shipping.
Resining of slabs has also reduced the price of slabs, which is one reason the industry is seeing such a big growth in slab sales in recent years.
Resined slabs are also less porous, and many resined materials do not need to be sealed, since the resin acts as a sealer for the stone.
In addition, Filippo Emanuel of Tenax USA listed the following benefits in a recent article in Stone World (June 2003, page 100):
Several materials are naturally fractured and could not otherwise be sold or marketed even if they are superior in terms of color, durability and other qualities.
There is a growing tendency in producing thinner slabs to reduce transportation costs and open up new markets and different stone uses.
The waste from manufacturing slabs of particular materials (especially some marbles) could represent 35 to 40% of production, thus considerably increasing the cost of the remaining slabs.
Many different kinds of granites have natural micro-fissures that compromise the final polished effect, thus reducing the beauty of the material.
There are materials just too fragile to be polished, leaving no solution but to close down quarries.
Some granites have fissures that pass through the slab and considerably decrease the strength of the slabs and pose a hazard when used as outside paneling.
Limited reserves of a particular color of stone leave only the worst and more damaged veins to be quarried.
The Bad and The Ugly Over the past few years, several problems have arisen with resining slabs. The following are some of the problems that have been encountered:
1. FadingOne of the major complaints associated with some resined slabs is that the resins used are not UV resistant. I have heard of several fabricators who store their slabs outside for several months, and when they go to use them, they discover that the slabs have darkened. This is especially true of slabs that are covered. In one case, a slab of stone was partially covered with another section of stone. When that small section was removed, it was discovered that the portion of the slab that was not covered had darkened. This is the result of UV light reacting with the resin. The lesson to be learned here is not to store slabs outdoors in direct sunlight. This is especially true of light colored materials such as Giallo Veneziano and others.
However, Emanuel points out that there should be no resin on the surface of the slab. “If there is, it means that the manufacturer did not do a good job removing it,” he said. “That is when fabricators start having problems with darkening effects.” If done correctly, the resin is inside the cracks and the pits, but nowhere else.
An additional problem is with profiles. Several fabricators have had experiences with the profiled edge turning out lighter than the rest of the stone. “The problem with the edges is that the resin will darken the top of the slabs regardless of the UV,” Emanuel explained. “It is just the effect of the different reflection of the light when a material is imbibed with resin. When you cut the edge, there is no resin on the side — regardless of the UV exposure. That’s the reason why the edges are lighter.”
Over time, we have found that the edge will darken and match the face of the stone. A quick fix to this problem is to use a color enhancer to darken the edge.
2. Sealer interactionOur technical hotline has received several calls where impregnators have been applied to a resined stone, and the material clouds, discolors or fades. After testing several slabs and sealers, I have discovered that some solvent-based impregnators will react with the resin, causing it to break down and turn color, cloud or fade. This is a problem that is difficult to repair. We have found that the application of a color enhancer will sometimes hide this problem. My recommendation would be to use only water-based impregnators on resined slabs.
3. Polishing and refinishing problemsIn a recent countertop repair seminar, one of our students brought in a resined section of stone he wanted to try and refinish and polish. We discovered that this material had such a heavy application of resin that when he tried honing the top, the resin became gummy. Once the surface was cut and polished, it was very difficult to match the remaining surface of the stone. As of this writing, I have yet to find a solution to this problem other than to refinish and polish the entire slab so it all has the same polish.
Please keep in mind that that some of these problems may be the result of improper application and not necessarily the resin itself. Just like any other industry, quality control can be an issue, and sometimes a slab or two may slip by. This is why it is important to deal with reputable slab distributors and to carefully inspect each slab upon delivery.
Only time and history will tell if the resining process is good, bad or ugly. Of course, resin chemistry will most likely improve, as well as the application process. In the meantime, stone fabricators should be aware of these problems and learn to deal with them.
Fred Hueston is founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades, a successful marble and stone consulting and training company. He is recognized as a nationally known consultant and has written over 28 books on the subject. If you have any questions for The Technical Forum, please
e-mail Fred Hueston at fhueston@aol.com.
Thursday, November 8, 2007
Whats Under Your Carpeting
What’s Under Your Carpeting
By Frederick M. Hueston
If your building was built prior to 1980 chances are you are hiding one of the most beautiful, elegant and sustainable floor materials. That material is known as Terrazzo. Today, sustainability or what is more commonly known as Going Green is rapidly being required by many school systems, governments and private industry. Of all the materials that can be used for flooring there are only a few that qualify as sustainable and are considered safe. They are stone and terrazzo. However, even these materials can contribute to pollution and pose all kinds of health and safety risks if not properly cared for.
Why should you be concerned about your carpets and other flooring? The General accounting office of the EPA reports that one of the top five health concerns is Indoor Air Quality. In addition they report that nearly 50% of the US schools have this problem.
The following article will outline some of the hazards associated with other floor materials such as carpet and vinyl, as well as present a truly sustainable restoration and maintenance process for stone and terrazzo flooring. This information should help with your quest to improve indoor air quality in your school or building.
Carpet
Of the entire floor covering available carpet is the most popular and also the most hazardous. New and Old carpet alike emit harmful VOC’s (volatile organic Compounds) into the air. Solvents such as toluene, benzene, formaldehyde, ethyl benzene, styrene, acetone and the list goes on and on. Carpets are also a great breeding ground for dust mites, fleas and other insects as well as toxic molds and mildew. In addition carpet cleaning chemicals have been linked to diseases such as Kawasaki’s, fibromyologia and allergies.
Carpet in schools, offices and other public and private buildings are even more hazardous due to the number of people who not only walk on them but also people deposit skin cells, dust etc, not to mention food and drink that is spilled on them which provides the organic material necessary for bacteria to grow and thrive.
Of all the floor coverings carpet has the shortage service life.
Vinyl Composition Tile(VCT)
VCT is just as hazardous as carpet and possibly even more. The Adhesives used to attach VCT emit high levels of VOC’s. Since VCT is a tile moisture is often found between the tiles where toxic mold can grow.
VCT is found in almost all schools, government buildings etc. VCT is very inexpensive. VCT is made ( insert what it is made of here)
In addition to VCT composition almost all of it is maintained with harmful acrylic coatings. These coating need to be removed(stripped) and the strippers used contain hazardous chemicals as well(see article titled(Are Floor Strippers Safe). The Environmental Protection Agency(EPA) recommends that any major maintenance be performed only when the school is unoccupied for 48 hours.
Agglomerates
Agglomerated tile is composed of real stone fragments and polyester or epoxy resins. Some name brands include Fritz tile, Rover, Etc. The manufacturing process uses synthetic resins that emit high amounts of VOC’s
Agglomerates are often maintained using the same hazardous coatings and strippers used on VCT
Terrazzo and Stone
Marble, Granite, limestone, slate and terrazzo are the only true sustainable floor coverings. Stone is all natural and contains no harmful VOC’s or any other hazardous elements. They are manufactured by mother earth and there fabrication uses only water and abrasives. Terrazzo is composed of natural stone and Portland cement and is also very sustainable. In addition Natural Stone and Terrazzo flooring is long lasting. Just look at some of the buildings in Italy, France and other countries around the world. Some of these stone floors are hundreds of years old.
The dangers with stone and terrazzo floors come with the restoration and maintenance of these surfaces. Hazardous chemicals, polishes, sealers etc are often used for restoration and maintenance. These chemicals are as hazardous as the waxes and strippers used on VCT and agglomerated floor coverings.
The good news is that Stone and Terrazzo flooring can be restored and maintained with no harmful or hazardous chemicals. The restoration process uses only water and abrasives. Daily maintenance can be carried out using only Green Seal approved neutral cleaners.
If your floors are currently covered with carpet, vinyl etc.you may want to consider removing these harmful and dangerous floor coverings and restoring the terrazzo or stone that is under them.
Note: If you floors are not stone or terrazzo and are only concrete. Concrete can be polished and maintained as well.
www.ntc-stone.com www.stoneuniversity.org
By Frederick M. Hueston
If your building was built prior to 1980 chances are you are hiding one of the most beautiful, elegant and sustainable floor materials. That material is known as Terrazzo. Today, sustainability or what is more commonly known as Going Green is rapidly being required by many school systems, governments and private industry. Of all the materials that can be used for flooring there are only a few that qualify as sustainable and are considered safe. They are stone and terrazzo. However, even these materials can contribute to pollution and pose all kinds of health and safety risks if not properly cared for.
Why should you be concerned about your carpets and other flooring? The General accounting office of the EPA reports that one of the top five health concerns is Indoor Air Quality. In addition they report that nearly 50% of the US schools have this problem.
The following article will outline some of the hazards associated with other floor materials such as carpet and vinyl, as well as present a truly sustainable restoration and maintenance process for stone and terrazzo flooring. This information should help with your quest to improve indoor air quality in your school or building.
Carpet
Of the entire floor covering available carpet is the most popular and also the most hazardous. New and Old carpet alike emit harmful VOC’s (volatile organic Compounds) into the air. Solvents such as toluene, benzene, formaldehyde, ethyl benzene, styrene, acetone and the list goes on and on. Carpets are also a great breeding ground for dust mites, fleas and other insects as well as toxic molds and mildew. In addition carpet cleaning chemicals have been linked to diseases such as Kawasaki’s, fibromyologia and allergies.
Carpet in schools, offices and other public and private buildings are even more hazardous due to the number of people who not only walk on them but also people deposit skin cells, dust etc, not to mention food and drink that is spilled on them which provides the organic material necessary for bacteria to grow and thrive.
Of all the floor coverings carpet has the shortage service life.
Vinyl Composition Tile(VCT)
VCT is just as hazardous as carpet and possibly even more. The Adhesives used to attach VCT emit high levels of VOC’s. Since VCT is a tile moisture is often found between the tiles where toxic mold can grow.
VCT is found in almost all schools, government buildings etc. VCT is very inexpensive. VCT is made ( insert what it is made of here)
In addition to VCT composition almost all of it is maintained with harmful acrylic coatings. These coating need to be removed(stripped) and the strippers used contain hazardous chemicals as well(see article titled(Are Floor Strippers Safe). The Environmental Protection Agency(EPA) recommends that any major maintenance be performed only when the school is unoccupied for 48 hours.
Agglomerates
Agglomerated tile is composed of real stone fragments and polyester or epoxy resins. Some name brands include Fritz tile, Rover, Etc. The manufacturing process uses synthetic resins that emit high amounts of VOC’s
Agglomerates are often maintained using the same hazardous coatings and strippers used on VCT
Terrazzo and Stone
Marble, Granite, limestone, slate and terrazzo are the only true sustainable floor coverings. Stone is all natural and contains no harmful VOC’s or any other hazardous elements. They are manufactured by mother earth and there fabrication uses only water and abrasives. Terrazzo is composed of natural stone and Portland cement and is also very sustainable. In addition Natural Stone and Terrazzo flooring is long lasting. Just look at some of the buildings in Italy, France and other countries around the world. Some of these stone floors are hundreds of years old.
The dangers with stone and terrazzo floors come with the restoration and maintenance of these surfaces. Hazardous chemicals, polishes, sealers etc are often used for restoration and maintenance. These chemicals are as hazardous as the waxes and strippers used on VCT and agglomerated floor coverings.
The good news is that Stone and Terrazzo flooring can be restored and maintained with no harmful or hazardous chemicals. The restoration process uses only water and abrasives. Daily maintenance can be carried out using only Green Seal approved neutral cleaners.
If your floors are currently covered with carpet, vinyl etc.you may want to consider removing these harmful and dangerous floor coverings and restoring the terrazzo or stone that is under them.
Note: If you floors are not stone or terrazzo and are only concrete. Concrete can be polished and maintained as well.
www.ntc-stone.com www.stoneuniversity.org
Going Green Means More Green $$$ in your pocket
Going Green Means More Green $$$ in your pocket
By Frederick M. Hueston
Unless you have been living under a rock the last ten years(no pun intended),going green is something you have at least heard of. Now , most of us that run a stone fabrication shop rarely think of going green and protecting the environment. However, this is something that will change in the years to come and its something that every stone shop should be thinking about. Before I discuss how to go green and how it can benefit your shop lets first define what going green means. According to the US Green Building Council green is "Principles that minimize the use of nonrenewable resources and seek to prevent air, water and ground contamination and other activities that degrade the environment." Lets look at this a little closer and how it can not only help planet earth, but how it can put more "green" in your pocket. First, going green is not a requirement or a law at this time. It is strictly voluntary. The following statement is from http://www.usgbc.org, which is the website to go to for all the information you will need on green. LEED(Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Green Building Rating System is a voluntary, consensus-based national standard for developing high-performance, sustainable buildings. So, if this is not a requirement why should I care you might ask? The following are several reasons:
Stone is Green. Just think about this for a moment. We are selling mother earth herself. Let us not forget that we are dealing with a natural resource. What better selling point then to advertise and market the fact that you are using a green product. Not only homeowners, but architects and designers both are keen to use green products. One of the latest trends in building design is to use recyclable building materials. Why recycle when you can use a natural green product such as stone.
Competitive Edge- Going green will give you one up on your competitors. What better way to gain the competitive edge then to let your potent ional customers know that you are not only working with a green product but your business is concerned with mother earth.
Save the Planet- What can be more satisfying in knowing that you are helping save the plant.
What can you do to go green in your shop.
Recycle and filter your water- Water recycling and filtering in many towns is now a requirement and will soon be a requirement all over the US. This is especially true in areas where water is scarce. There are several companies that now make recycling and filtration equipment. For a list of companies
Go Wet- It surprises me how many shops today are still cutting, grinding and polishing stone dry. In my book this is a no-no. Dry cutting and grinding releases silica dust in the air which can cause siliceous, a very serious lung disease.
Recycle your stone- See the next section below on what to do with your stone waste.
Build with Green Materials- There are many new material for building that are made from recycled materials such as tires, plastic milk jugs and other materials that are normally just thrown away.
Use Natural Floor Materials- get rid of the carpets and install stone flooring in your showroom and office. This will also help you sell more stone.
Use non toxic chemicals- use water based sealers and cleaners. Try to stay clear of solvent based materials.
What to do with your stone waste
Many fabricators have a big issue with there stone waste. I talked with a fabricator recently that was spending over $2000 per month on disposal of their stone waste. There are several ways to dispose of your waste and even a few where you can generate more green$$$$
Here are a few suggestions:
Have a weekend sale. I know several fabricators who open up there stone yard to the general public and sell there waste for next to nothing. Some even give it away. Take a small ad in the newspaper and advertise it. You can make some extra money by charging the customer to cut the piece or even profile and polish it. I know one fabricator who made over $35000.00 on one weekend with this method.
Tumble it- Tumble stone is big and customers love it. Why not take you waste, cut it into small tiles and tumble it. These tiles can be sold for as much as $20 each.
Give it away to artist and craftspeople- if you are in an area that has a large arts and crafts community, why not give it away. You wont be making any money on it but on the other hand you wont be spending it to get rid of it.
Sidewalks and patios- what about using it in sidewalks and patios. Masons get some big dollars for this type of work and it looks great. Terrazzo companies may also be interested in it for what is knows as palandiana terrazzo.
Chicken Grit- Buy and rock crusher and grind the stone into fine grit and sell it to chicken farmers as chicken grit.
www.ntc-stone.com and www.stoneuniversity.org
By Frederick M. Hueston
Unless you have been living under a rock the last ten years(no pun intended),going green is something you have at least heard of. Now , most of us that run a stone fabrication shop rarely think of going green and protecting the environment. However, this is something that will change in the years to come and its something that every stone shop should be thinking about. Before I discuss how to go green and how it can benefit your shop lets first define what going green means. According to the US Green Building Council green is "Principles that minimize the use of nonrenewable resources and seek to prevent air, water and ground contamination and other activities that degrade the environment." Lets look at this a little closer and how it can not only help planet earth, but how it can put more "green" in your pocket. First, going green is not a requirement or a law at this time. It is strictly voluntary. The following statement is from http://www.usgbc.org, which is the website to go to for all the information you will need on green. LEED(Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Green Building Rating System is a voluntary, consensus-based national standard for developing high-performance, sustainable buildings. So, if this is not a requirement why should I care you might ask? The following are several reasons:
Stone is Green. Just think about this for a moment. We are selling mother earth herself. Let us not forget that we are dealing with a natural resource. What better selling point then to advertise and market the fact that you are using a green product. Not only homeowners, but architects and designers both are keen to use green products. One of the latest trends in building design is to use recyclable building materials. Why recycle when you can use a natural green product such as stone.
Competitive Edge- Going green will give you one up on your competitors. What better way to gain the competitive edge then to let your potent ional customers know that you are not only working with a green product but your business is concerned with mother earth.
Save the Planet- What can be more satisfying in knowing that you are helping save the plant.
What can you do to go green in your shop.
Recycle and filter your water- Water recycling and filtering in many towns is now a requirement and will soon be a requirement all over the US. This is especially true in areas where water is scarce. There are several companies that now make recycling and filtration equipment. For a list of companies
Go Wet- It surprises me how many shops today are still cutting, grinding and polishing stone dry. In my book this is a no-no. Dry cutting and grinding releases silica dust in the air which can cause siliceous, a very serious lung disease.
Recycle your stone- See the next section below on what to do with your stone waste.
Build with Green Materials- There are many new material for building that are made from recycled materials such as tires, plastic milk jugs and other materials that are normally just thrown away.
Use Natural Floor Materials- get rid of the carpets and install stone flooring in your showroom and office. This will also help you sell more stone.
Use non toxic chemicals- use water based sealers and cleaners. Try to stay clear of solvent based materials.
What to do with your stone waste
Many fabricators have a big issue with there stone waste. I talked with a fabricator recently that was spending over $2000 per month on disposal of their stone waste. There are several ways to dispose of your waste and even a few where you can generate more green$$$$
Here are a few suggestions:
Have a weekend sale. I know several fabricators who open up there stone yard to the general public and sell there waste for next to nothing. Some even give it away. Take a small ad in the newspaper and advertise it. You can make some extra money by charging the customer to cut the piece or even profile and polish it. I know one fabricator who made over $35000.00 on one weekend with this method.
Tumble it- Tumble stone is big and customers love it. Why not take you waste, cut it into small tiles and tumble it. These tiles can be sold for as much as $20 each.
Give it away to artist and craftspeople- if you are in an area that has a large arts and crafts community, why not give it away. You wont be making any money on it but on the other hand you wont be spending it to get rid of it.
Sidewalks and patios- what about using it in sidewalks and patios. Masons get some big dollars for this type of work and it looks great. Terrazzo companies may also be interested in it for what is knows as palandiana terrazzo.
Chicken Grit- Buy and rock crusher and grind the stone into fine grit and sell it to chicken farmers as chicken grit.
www.ntc-stone.com and www.stoneuniversity.org
Training and Edcation for the Stone Industry
Training and Education for the Stone Industry
by Frederick M. Hueston
Many industries have formal training programs where you can learn the trade. There are programs for general contractors, electricians, plumbers, carpenters etc. Many of these classes are offered by community and technical colleges. What about the stone Industry? Where does one go to learn how to install, fabricate or restore stone?
A little History
The stone industry has really never had any formal training programs in the past. All the training was done on the job. There were lecture based short seminars that were offered at trade shows and expos but these were very generic and did not provide hands on training.
In 1991 the first formal training program was developed by Fred Hueston, who founded The National Training Center for Stone & Masonry Trades(NTC). This first class incorporated lecture as well as actual hands on training. The course was outlined and developed as if it were developed for a trade school or college.
Today, many others offer training programs, however these programs are sponsored and presented by distributors and suppliers who have an interest in selling their products. There is still useful information to learn from these courses but one must be careful and beware of a sales pitch.
When choosing a training course you want to make sure that the instructors are experienced in their respected craft. While experience is critical the instructor must also have the ability to teach. I have seen many instructors and presenters in this industry that like to hear themselves talk and have little or no concern as to weather you are learning the material.
All too often instructors do not have their facts straight and will make up facts. I have seen this many times. A good instructor will make sure to point out facts, back them up with proof. If an opinion is offered it will be clear that it is an opinion.
Types of Training
There are several ways to receive training and many methods. The following will explore these methods.
Lecture
Lecture is the most popular training. This is where the instructors gets up in front of a group and presents. He/she may use power point, slides, flip charts,video, etc to emphasis points. This is the method of presentation that you will see at trade shows and expos.
The advantage of lecture methods is that a lot of information can be presented. The disadvantage is that the student will rarely absorb all this information. This is why it is important to have all the information presented in hand outs etc. Another disadvantage is that adults can bored easily.
Hands On
Hands on training is perhaps the best way to learn any of the stone trades. This is where the student actually gets to work with the tools etc. One must be careful when looking at training programs that advertise Hands On. If the instructor is doing all the work and only demonstrating the techniques and not allowing the students to perform the tasks, this is not hands on. A true hands on class will allow you to not only work with the tools but to have time to practice the techniques etc.
Online
With the advent of the Internet, there is now training that can be taken online. This type of training was first offered by Fred Hueston of Stone University. The training is similar to the lecture method. The advantage is that all the lessons can be recorded and viewed again and again. The disadvantage is that it does not offer hands on.
Training is a continual process. The best business owners and craftsman know that they have to continue to be updated with new techniques and methods.
For further information on training visit stoneuniversity.org or ntc-stone.com
Here are some other great training resources where there is no product sales:
Natural Stone Restoration Alliance www.nsraweb.com
Stone Fabricators Alliance www.stoneadvise.com
by Frederick M. Hueston
Many industries have formal training programs where you can learn the trade. There are programs for general contractors, electricians, plumbers, carpenters etc. Many of these classes are offered by community and technical colleges. What about the stone Industry? Where does one go to learn how to install, fabricate or restore stone?
A little History
The stone industry has really never had any formal training programs in the past. All the training was done on the job. There were lecture based short seminars that were offered at trade shows and expos but these were very generic and did not provide hands on training.
In 1991 the first formal training program was developed by Fred Hueston, who founded The National Training Center for Stone & Masonry Trades(NTC). This first class incorporated lecture as well as actual hands on training. The course was outlined and developed as if it were developed for a trade school or college.
Today, many others offer training programs, however these programs are sponsored and presented by distributors and suppliers who have an interest in selling their products. There is still useful information to learn from these courses but one must be careful and beware of a sales pitch.
When choosing a training course you want to make sure that the instructors are experienced in their respected craft. While experience is critical the instructor must also have the ability to teach. I have seen many instructors and presenters in this industry that like to hear themselves talk and have little or no concern as to weather you are learning the material.
All too often instructors do not have their facts straight and will make up facts. I have seen this many times. A good instructor will make sure to point out facts, back them up with proof. If an opinion is offered it will be clear that it is an opinion.
Types of Training
There are several ways to receive training and many methods. The following will explore these methods.
Lecture
Lecture is the most popular training. This is where the instructors gets up in front of a group and presents. He/she may use power point, slides, flip charts,video, etc to emphasis points. This is the method of presentation that you will see at trade shows and expos.
The advantage of lecture methods is that a lot of information can be presented. The disadvantage is that the student will rarely absorb all this information. This is why it is important to have all the information presented in hand outs etc. Another disadvantage is that adults can bored easily.
Hands On
Hands on training is perhaps the best way to learn any of the stone trades. This is where the student actually gets to work with the tools etc. One must be careful when looking at training programs that advertise Hands On. If the instructor is doing all the work and only demonstrating the techniques and not allowing the students to perform the tasks, this is not hands on. A true hands on class will allow you to not only work with the tools but to have time to practice the techniques etc.
Online
With the advent of the Internet, there is now training that can be taken online. This type of training was first offered by Fred Hueston of Stone University. The training is similar to the lecture method. The advantage is that all the lessons can be recorded and viewed again and again. The disadvantage is that it does not offer hands on.
Training is a continual process. The best business owners and craftsman know that they have to continue to be updated with new techniques and methods.
For further information on training visit stoneuniversity.org or ntc-stone.com
Here are some other great training resources where there is no product sales:
Natural Stone Restoration Alliance www.nsraweb.com
Stone Fabricators Alliance www.stoneadvise.com
Black Granite Fading
By Frederick M. Hueston
I have received numerous calls lately concerning the fading of black granite counter tops.
The most common complaints seem to be on Absolute Black, Black Galaxy, Zimbabwe Black and a few others. I have heard many fabricators try to blame the fading on the mis use of cleaning chemicals, acids etc. While one should not use inapropriate chemicals on granite surfaces, this is not the reason for the increase in black granite fading.
Why does black granite fade?
The answer is, black granite should not fade. Black granite imported from Asia and India is sometimes doctored with dyes and oils to darken the surface. Dyes can include home made blends such as charcoal and linseed oil. Pre packaged color enhancers are also used to darken granite. The fading is nothing more than the dyes and oils being removed. Of course the wrong chemical will take the dye out faster but I have seen many of these dyes removed using simply water and a mild cleaner.
Here we see fading of a dyed Black Absolute Slab
This picture was taken in India showing a worker applying dye to the granite.
Dye dripping down the sides of black granite
Testing for Dyed Granite
Before purchasing a granite slab perform the following test to find out if it has been doctored.
Take a clean white rag and apply some acetone to the surface of the granite. If any residue or black color is observed on the top, do not accept it, it has been dyed. If you get no dye from the acetone then take some MEK(Methyl Ethyl Ketone) and apply to a different part of the slab. If you get any color transfer the stone is dyed. These chemicals can be purchased at most home improvement or paint supply stores.
Can Dyed Granite Be Repaired?
The reason granite is dyed is that its natural color is gray and it doesn’t have that deep black color that some black granites have. For this reason many factors use deceptive methods to doctor these slabs pawning them off as deep black granites.
Unfortunately, there is no fix. Other than to dye the granite again.
In addition to dying many types of granite are also injected with resins, which can also darken granite. For further information on the resining process see my article titled Resin Slabs, The Good, The Bad and The Ugly at www.stoneworld.com.
Fred HuestonFred Hueston and AssociatesStone University(stoneuniversity.org)The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades(ntc-stone.com)828-301-9796321-441-3784http://www.ntc-stone.com/http://www.stoneuniversity.org/
Comparison of Two Maintenance Systems for stone
Purpose of Study: To compare and evaluate the advantages,disadvantages,required labor of two popular stone maintenance programs.
Introduction: The maintenance of stone flooring in the United States today is a million dollar a year business and continues to grow. This increased growth results from the desire to maintain a highly polished mirror finish. As of this date there are basically two methods to keep stone in this condition. One method is to place some type of a coating on the surface of the stone. These coatings can be natural or synthetic waxes, acrylics, urethanes and epoxies. The majority used today on marble are composed of acrylics. The second method used to maintain stone is to polish the stone with the use of abrasive diamonds and polishing powders. This method uses no coatings. It simply smooths the stone to produce a high shine. The purpose of this study is to compare the advantages and disadvantages of these two methods as well as their labor and material requirements. A third method becoming popular is the use of flurosilicate compounds applied to the stone. This method is commonly called Recrystallazation or Vitrification and is applied as a final finish in place of powder polishing or it is applied on top of the polished finish for added shine. This study will not address this process.
Maintenance of coatings:
Once a stone floor is coated the following is the standard procedure for maintenance:
1. The entire floor is dust mopped(daily) .
2. The floor is then damp mopped or machine scrubbed with a neutral cleaner(daily).
3. Worn areas are spray buffed using a standard floor machine and a red pad. If a high speed finish is used the floor is burnished using a high speed buffer(daily).
4. Areas that do not shine after buffing or spray buffing are re-coated(daily as needed).
5. Periodically the floor is stripped and re-coated(every six
months or more often).
Maintenance using honing and polishing.
Once the stone floor is honed and polished the following is the standard procedure for maintenance:
1. The entire floor is dust mopped(daily).
2. The floor is damp mopped or machine scrubbed with a neutral cleaner or stone soap(two-three times per week).
3. Traffic areas are polished with polishing powder(once per week in high traffic, less often in lower traffic).
4. Severely worn areas are lightly honed and re-polished(once every six months)
Both maintenance procedures described above are typical. Frequencies will vary depending on traffic, type of stone and desired finish. Both procedures assume that floor is in maintainable condition at start of maintenance program.
Method of study
In order to evaluate both of the above methods three commercial lobby floors were studied. All three floors have used both methods for a period of one year or more. Maintenance personnel and executive housekeepers were interviewed to obtain costs, advantages and disadvantages of both methods. Since hourly labor rates vary from state to state, this study will provide labor hours only.
Case Study #1
Property
Busy Hotel lobby located near a major theme park.
Floor Description
12,000 square feet of rosa perlino marble in a palandiana terrazzo pattern.
Very busy lobby. Traffic areas include large reception check in and four elevator banks. Floor is adjacent to a swimming pool area.
Maintenance procedure(coating) from date of installation to 1992.
When floor was complete several coats of a carnauba based sealer was applied.
1. Floor was dust mopped daily in the evenings during third shift.
2. Floor was wet mopped daily using a commercial, neutral floor cleaner.
3. Floor was spray buffed every night to remove scuffing, black heel marks and wear.
4. Floor was recoated daily in heavy traffic areas with a light coat of the carnauba based sealer.
Total daily man hours required 16 hours
Comments on maintenance program(coating) from staff and executive housekeeper:
Floor very difficult to maintain. It appears to mar, scuff very easily.
Once floor is spray buffed it looks great but once traffic starts the finish rapidly deteriorates.
The finish on the floor is turning yellow and becoming very dark and dirty looking.
The wax is accumulating in holes in the marble and turning black.
Maintenance procedure(polishing)from 1992 to present.
In 1992 the entire floor was stripped, the holes filled and then honed and polished using standard marble polishing powders.
1. Floor is dust mopped every evening.
2. Floor is damp mopped three times per week using a stone soap.
3. Traffic areas are re-polished once every two weeks using standard marble polishing powders.
4. As of this date no re-honing has been performed. Inspection of the floor and wearability indicates that honing of traffic areas will need to be about once per year.
Total daily man hours required 6 hours
Comments on maintenance program(polishing) from staff and executive housekeeper.
Our labor costs have been cut dramatically and the floor looks and stays clean longer.
Dirt doesn't seem to stick to the floor like it did before.
Case Study #2
Property
Busy hotel lobby, located next to major interstate exchange.
Floor description
3500 Square feet of rosa alicante marble, 12x12 inch tiles.
Busy hotel lobby floor. Constant traffic due to adjacent meeting rooms.
Maintenance procedure(coating) prior to 1992
Floor was initially stripped and several coats of an acrylic floor finish were applied.
1. Floor was dust mopped daily.
2. Floor was wet mopped daily with a neutral cleaner.
3. Once per month the entire floor was re-coated with acrylic floor finish. No spray buffing was performed between re-coatings.
4. Once every three months the entire floor was stripped and re-coated.
Total daily hours required- 4 hours
Comments on maintenance program(coating)from staff and executive housekeeper.
Floor looks great for one day a month, immediately after it is re-waxed. During the remaining time it looks just terrible.
Floor has a real plastic look, it doesn't even look like marble anymore.
The bellman carts are leaving marks on the floor all over and the area in front of the reception desk is very dull.
Maintenance procedure(polishing)from 1992 to present.
The entire floor was stripped to remove all the old wax, re-honed and then powder polished using standard marble polishing powders.
1. Floor is dust mopped daily.
2. Floor is wet mopped daily.
3. Traffic areas are re-polished once per week using polishing powder.
4. As of this date re-honing is required about once per year of approx. 800 square feet.
Total daily man hours required 1 3/4 hours.
Comments on maintenance program(polishing)from staff and executive housekeeper.
Our floor looks like marble again and the carts are no longer marking the floor.
Dust mopping and wet mopping are now a snap. The mop seems to glide very easily over the floor and we are not picking up as much dirt as before.
Case Study #3
Property
High rise apartment building lobby located in Canada
Floor description
1000 square feet of a negro marquina and white carrara in a checker board pattern.
Very busy residential condo with approx 80 condo units.
Maintenance procedure(coating)from date of installation to 1992.
This floor has been waxed for the past several years with the following maintenance program.
1. Floor was dust mopped several times per week.
2. Floor was damp mopped several times per week, daily during the winter months.
3. Floor was spray buffed once per week.
4. Floor was stripped and re-coated with an acrylic floor finish once every three months.
Total daily man hours required 1 hour
Comments on maintenance program(coating)from staff and property manager.
Floor always looks dull and scratched.
I can never seem to keep up with the floor, it is always scuffing (Janitor)
Maintenance procedure(polishing)from 1992 to present.
Floor was stripped, ground flat, rehoned and polished using standard marble polishing powders.
1. Floor is dust mopped daily every morning.
2. Floor is damp mop once per week, daily in winter.
3. Traffic areas are repolished once per month.
Total daily man hours 25 minutes
Comments on maintenance program(polishing)from staff and property manager.
Our floor is shiny again, it looks great.
I can't believe how easy the floor is to maintain, no more stripping and waxing.
Maintenance Methods Summary
Daily labor hours required
Project Strip & Wax Hone & Polish
_________________________________________________________________
Case Study #1 16 hours 6 hours
Case Study #2 4 hours 1 3/4 hours
Case Study #3 1 hour 25 minutes
_________________________________________________________________
Material Costs:
Cost for materials and consumption was difficult to obtain from housekeeping staff. Based on guess estimates, material cost were insignificant compared to labor cost. The costs of polishing powders and diamond abrasive were slightly lower than the use of strippers and coatings.
Conclusions & Discussion
Based on the above case studies it is apparent that the honing and polishing method is more economical than the use of coatings on stone flooring. Labor costs are reduced by one-half or more.
This reduction in labor costs is a significant savings per year.
Case Study #1 is saving 3650 hours per year, at an average labor cost of $12.00 per hour this is a savings of $43,800.00 per year.
Case #2 labor savings is equal to 821 hours per year or $9852.00 per year saved based on average labor cost of $12.00 per hour.
Case #3 saves 212 hours or $2544.00 per year.
Although costs are a major consideration when comparing the above two maintenance programs, it is also apparent that their are distinct advantages to the honing and polishing program as well as some disadvantages to the coating program. Coatings will mar, scuff and wear very easily. It is a well known fact that there are no coatings currently available for stone that are harder than the stone itself. For this reason coatings will scuff and mar much more than the stone itself. It is often argued that these coatings place a sacrificial layer on the stone protecting it from dirt and staining. Although this would make sense the opposite is true. These coatings are soft and will attract dirt faster than a natural polish. This is easy to prove if one takes a section of stone floor and applies a coating and on another section performs a hone and polish. After one or two days it will be discovered that more dust and debris is attracted to the coated surface than the honed and polished surface. It will also be discovered that removing the dust and debris from the coated surface is much more difficult. Coatings also will build on the surface producing a plastic like appearance. Some coatings will also turn dark and yellow rapidity. This is especially true if the stone is exposed to ultraviolet light. The removal of coatings by the use of harsh strippers can also damage the stone. Many strippers contain Sodium Hydroxide , which can form what is known as an alkaline salt. These salts can penetrate into the stone and cause premature spalling. Some coatings may also block the breathing of the stone causing it to suffocate and rot.
How does one protect the stone from staining if coatings are not used? Stone can be protected with products known as penetrating sealers or impregnators. These materials are designed to penetrate below the surface of the stone and keeping water and debris on the surface. Since they are not a coatings they will not require repair. They do not however add gloss to the stone surface.
The following table outlines the advantages and disadvantages of the two maintenance programs studied. Although only three case studies were used, many contractors and maintenance companies were interviewed to obtain these conclusions. Those who use the hone and polishing programs are very pleased and will not return to the old strip and coat method. Those companies interviewed who use the strip and coat method were not aware that another program existed.
Although this study shows that the polishing method is more economical, caution is advised. Each case must be studied carefully. Labor skill, budget requirements and existing condition of the stone must be evaluated before choosing the proper maintenance system. Those using marble polishing powders and diamond abrasives must be trained in there proper application. There are many quality coatings available that may be a good alternative to the above system if these special skills are not available. It is advisable to contact a reputable stone maintenance professional for advise.
Advantages & Disadvantages Summary
Coatings- Advantages
* Can be repaired by buffing
* Easy to apply
* Provides a sacrificial Coating(?)
Coatings- Disadvantages
* Will mar and scuff
* Can Yellow
* Stripping is required
* Can appear plastic-like
* Can block breathing of stone causing spalling
* Will attract dirt like a magnet.
* Labor intensive
Hone and polish-Advantages
* Will not scuff and mar
* Provides a natural shine
* Longer lasting than coatings
* Allows stone to breathe
* Reduced labor costs
Hone and polish- Disadvantages
* Increased skill level- Training required
* Does not provide stain protection
Fred Hueston is the founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades(www.ntc-stone.com) and Stone University(www.Stoneuniversity.org)
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
Deicers are killing your stone and terrazzo Flooring
Are your Ice and Snow Melters Destroying your Stone and Terrazzo Floors
The Deterioration of Stone & Masonry through the Crystallization of Deicing Salts
Frederick M. Hueston
The crystallization of deicing salts found in many snow and ice melter can cause severe deterioration of stone, terrazzo and masonry surfaces. This crystallization is called subflorescence. Snow and Ice Melters containing Calcium Chloride, etc are the cause for this damage. .Problems associated with subflorescence can be diagnosed and identified by visual clues, such as spalling and pitting. Accurate diagnosis of subflorescence can be confirmed with laboratory testing. Preventative applications might include application of chemical injection and coating the masonry with a sealer or impregnator as well as switching to a snow and ice melter that contain non-crystalline salts. The following article will explore the problems caused by these deicers and what can be done to prevent damage to your stone, terrazzo or masonry floors.
How do Deicer Cause Damage
The deposit of salts in the pores of stone and masonry is the major cause for deterioration of these surfaces. These salts are contained in many popular snow and ice melters. Boyer(1986) contributes deicing salts
When snow and ice melts the salts used in deicers become soluble. The water wicks into the pores of the stone and masonry carrying the salts with it. When the water evaporates the salts recrystallize. The pressure created in the pores of the stone and masonry cause the surface to flake off or spall. This process is known as subflorescence.
4
Diagnosing and Identifying Subflorescence
An experience stone consultant can recognize the signs and symptoms of damage caused by deicing salts. The stone and masonry will appear pitted(spalled). This damage is observed in the walking path at the entrances of the building. The damage tends to lessen the further away from the entrance. Certain stones such as some limestone’s and slates will flake off in sheets. Terrazzo and marble will become pitted.
Core samples can also be taken and sent to a lab for testing and verification if necessary.
Snow and Ice Melters
There are many brands of snow melters on the market. Many of these melters contain salts that will crystallize and cause damage to stone and masonry. The following are the salts you should avoid.
Rock Salt- Rock salt will go by the name of Halite but chemically it is simply Sodium Chloride(NaCl). This is the most common salt sold for deicing and it is also the least expensive and hence is the most widely used. It is also the salt that causes the most damage to stone, terrazzo and masonry flooring.
Calcium and Magnesium Chloride(CaCl2 –MgCl2)- these are salts that come from natural salt deposits in the Great Salt Lake in Utah. They are also destructive to stone, terrazzo and masonry. They also can deposit a film on the surface of the floor causing it to be slippery.
Potassium Chloride(KCL)- This salt is not a very good deicer by itself and is often found mixed with other ingredients. It is often sold as a safer salt for plants. But not for stone, terrazzo or masonry.
Ammonium Sulphate(NH4]2SO4 Stay far away from this salt. It is very damaging to stone, terrazzo and masonry. It’s not used that much in deicers but if you see it listed on the ingredients, don’t buy it.
Urea- Urea is commonly found in fertilizers. In its pure form it is less damaging the most other salts. Most deicers containing Urea are not pure and can be damaging to stone, terrazzo and masonry.
The above salts are in a sold crystalline form. There are liquid deicers available containing Ethylene Glycol and Potassium acetate but liquids are usually impractical to apply in schools and other public buildings.
Safe Deicers
Which salts are safe for stone, terrazzo and masonry flooring? Thanks to our many icy roads a salt known as Calcium Magnesium acetate was developed. Not only is this type of deicer more environmentally friendly it is also biodegradable, non corrosive and less damaging to stone, terrazzo and masonry surfaces. The down side you might guess is the expense. But what will that new floor cost?
Safe for Concrete Deicers
The biggest concern with deicers is the corrosion of rebar in concrete. For this reason many deicers are claiming to be safe for concrete. This is true as far as less corrosion. Your concern is not necessarily corrosion but salt crystallization. Make sure to check the ingredient of these so called safer deicers by requesting a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) or consult with a stone expert.
As I travel in areas where deicer are used I see thousands of schools, government buildings as well as public building with damage to stone, terrazzo and masonry flooring. If the damage is caught in time a restoration company may be able to repair the damage. If these harmful salts continue to be used you’ll be replacing the flooring in a very short time.
The Deterioration of Stone & Masonry through the Crystallization of Deicing Salts
Frederick M. Hueston
The crystallization of deicing salts found in many snow and ice melter can cause severe deterioration of stone, terrazzo and masonry surfaces. This crystallization is called subflorescence. Snow and Ice Melters containing Calcium Chloride, etc are the cause for this damage. .Problems associated with subflorescence can be diagnosed and identified by visual clues, such as spalling and pitting. Accurate diagnosis of subflorescence can be confirmed with laboratory testing. Preventative applications might include application of chemical injection and coating the masonry with a sealer or impregnator as well as switching to a snow and ice melter that contain non-crystalline salts. The following article will explore the problems caused by these deicers and what can be done to prevent damage to your stone, terrazzo or masonry floors.
How do Deicer Cause Damage
The deposit of salts in the pores of stone and masonry is the major cause for deterioration of these surfaces. These salts are contained in many popular snow and ice melters. Boyer(1986) contributes deicing salts
When snow and ice melts the salts used in deicers become soluble. The water wicks into the pores of the stone and masonry carrying the salts with it. When the water evaporates the salts recrystallize. The pressure created in the pores of the stone and masonry cause the surface to flake off or spall. This process is known as subflorescence.
4
Diagnosing and Identifying Subflorescence
An experience stone consultant can recognize the signs and symptoms of damage caused by deicing salts. The stone and masonry will appear pitted(spalled). This damage is observed in the walking path at the entrances of the building. The damage tends to lessen the further away from the entrance. Certain stones such as some limestone’s and slates will flake off in sheets. Terrazzo and marble will become pitted.
Core samples can also be taken and sent to a lab for testing and verification if necessary.
Snow and Ice Melters
There are many brands of snow melters on the market. Many of these melters contain salts that will crystallize and cause damage to stone and masonry. The following are the salts you should avoid.
Rock Salt- Rock salt will go by the name of Halite but chemically it is simply Sodium Chloride(NaCl). This is the most common salt sold for deicing and it is also the least expensive and hence is the most widely used. It is also the salt that causes the most damage to stone, terrazzo and masonry flooring.
Calcium and Magnesium Chloride(CaCl2 –MgCl2)- these are salts that come from natural salt deposits in the Great Salt Lake in Utah. They are also destructive to stone, terrazzo and masonry. They also can deposit a film on the surface of the floor causing it to be slippery.
Potassium Chloride(KCL)- This salt is not a very good deicer by itself and is often found mixed with other ingredients. It is often sold as a safer salt for plants. But not for stone, terrazzo or masonry.
Ammonium Sulphate(NH4]2SO4 Stay far away from this salt. It is very damaging to stone, terrazzo and masonry. It’s not used that much in deicers but if you see it listed on the ingredients, don’t buy it.
Urea- Urea is commonly found in fertilizers. In its pure form it is less damaging the most other salts. Most deicers containing Urea are not pure and can be damaging to stone, terrazzo and masonry.
The above salts are in a sold crystalline form. There are liquid deicers available containing Ethylene Glycol and Potassium acetate but liquids are usually impractical to apply in schools and other public buildings.
Safe Deicers
Which salts are safe for stone, terrazzo and masonry flooring? Thanks to our many icy roads a salt known as Calcium Magnesium acetate was developed. Not only is this type of deicer more environmentally friendly it is also biodegradable, non corrosive and less damaging to stone, terrazzo and masonry surfaces. The down side you might guess is the expense. But what will that new floor cost?
Safe for Concrete Deicers
The biggest concern with deicers is the corrosion of rebar in concrete. For this reason many deicers are claiming to be safe for concrete. This is true as far as less corrosion. Your concern is not necessarily corrosion but salt crystallization. Make sure to check the ingredient of these so called safer deicers by requesting a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) or consult with a stone expert.
As I travel in areas where deicer are used I see thousands of schools, government buildings as well as public building with damage to stone, terrazzo and masonry flooring. If the damage is caught in time a restoration company may be able to repair the damage. If these harmful salts continue to be used you’ll be replacing the flooring in a very short time.
Saturday, November 3, 2007
A Guide to Selecting Granite Counter Tops
Introduction
Congratulations on considering using granite for your new counter tops. Granite is becoming the number one material used for counter tops in all buildings and it should be. In a recent study by the Kitchen and Bath Association, granite counter tops are being used in nearly 1/3 of all new homes being built today. Granite is a durable material with many advantages over other materials traditionally used.
Granite is an excellent choice for counter tops. It is very scratch resistant. Most granite will not be affected by acidic foods. Hot plates can be placed directly on the surface. Some granites are somewhat porous and can stain very easily therefore proper sealing is a must. Granite is also available in polished and matt finishes. Granite is also expensive but is one of the most beautiful counter tops available.
Granite- Dispelling the Myths
Many of you will use granite for your new counter tops and you will run into many myths when shopping for granite. The following will help you deal with these myths and rumors.
Do not use granite. It is dangerous and can harm you. Granite emits radon and it can also harbor bacteria. Theses are some of the statements that are being rumored lately. They are absolutely not true. Lets take a look at each one of these rumors:
Myth #1- Granite can harbor harmful bacteria!
This statement is simply untrue. We Contacted The Center for Disease Control(CDC) and The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) to find out how many cases they had on file where granite has caused any illness or disease as a result of bacteria. They could not find one case, proving that granite will not harbor bacteria. In addition, you would expect one to clean their counter top on a regular basis.
Myth #2- Granite contains harmful radon gases!
This again is another myth that is untrue. This claim was investigated by Donald Langmuir, PhD, Professor Emeritus of Chemistry and Geochemistry at the Colorado School of Mines and President of Hydrochemical Systems Corp. Mr Langmuir response can be found at http://www.natural-stone.com/radonmyth.html
Myth #3- Granite is difficult to clean!
Also, not true. Anyone who works with or owns a granite counter top, knows it is very easy to take care of. Cleaning requires wiping with a good stone cleaner. There are even disinfectant cleaners now available for both granite and solid surfaces. ISI members provide complete cleaning instructions with all counter top we sell and install.
What to look for:
Now that you have decided on granite it is now time to visit the shop and choose your counter top. As we mentioned not all granite is the same and you should look at the slab or slabs that your granite counter top will be fabricated from. The following are some tips that should help avoid any problems.
SLAB SELECTION
Your new granite counter top will be made from a slab of granite. A slab is a large rectangular piece of stone that your counter top will be cut from. Slabs come in various sizes and basically two thickness(3/4 and 1/1/4 inches).
Once you have selected the type of granite you like, then you will need to examine the slab very carefully. Look for imperfections, such as nicks, pits, etc. Some of these imperfections can be filled Check to make sure the granite is not scratched.
If we already have your template made, we will take the template and place it on the slab. This will give you a real good idea on how the counter top will look. If there are any unusual natural flaws, the template may be arranged so that these flaws are not on the counter top when complete. Now is the time to discover these flaws, not when the counter top is already cut.
Things to discuss with us before the slab is cut.
There are several things you need to discuss with before the slab is cut.
Seams: How thick will the seams be? A seam is where two pieces of stone meet. An extremely wide seam will be unsightly. Seams should be no wider than 1/8 of an inch.
Our shop will place the seams in areas that will provide full support of your new stone countertop.
Cabinets: Before we can measure or template your countertops, the cabinet installer must have the cabinets set and leveled. This is the responsibility of the cabinet installer.
Sinks, cook tops and fixtures. Before your counter top is fabricated it is important to have your sink, cook top, etc and all the fixtures you plan on using. Once we cut the openings for the fixtures and appliance it is too late. Even if a template is available, many times the fixtures and appliances will change and the template will not work. The only way to avoid this is to have the actual sink, cook top and fixtures available.
Door Pulls and cabinet hardware: It is important that the cabinet’s door pulls and hardware are installed. The reason for this is to make sure that the pulls are easily accessible when the counter tops is installed.
Overhangs: If you plan on having a large overhang on any of the counter tops there is a limit as to how much the counter tops can overhang without any additional support. Your fabricator should be able to guide you on the proper overhang limits. For overhangs larger than those recommend you should have them properly supported to withstand a persons weight. This means placing metal or wood brackets under the counter top.
Installation of your new counter tops:
There are also several things you will need to discuss with us about the installation of your counter tops. Of course this is best done before the counter tops is installed.
Here is what we will discuss with you that will make a smooth installation:
Fixture installation: Normally the installation of the fixtures is performed by a plumber. Most plumbers are professionals and know what they are doing, however many plumbers are not familiar with stone. The number one problem with installation of fixtures is the use of plumber’s putty. Plumbers putty is used on the fixtures to help seal them. Plumbers putty will also stain very easily. Make sure to tell the plumber to use a non-staining putty. Once the counter tops is stained with plumber’s putty it is very difficult to remove.
Acceptable repairs: Many times during fabrication or installation the stone may chip. It is common practice to repair these chips with a polymer type filler. This is considered acceptable by the stone industry as long as the repair does not effect the structural integrity of the stone and that the color of the repair does not detract from the appearance of the stone. Remember stone is a product of nature and it may have naturally occurring holes, chips, etc.
Fred Hueston is a nationally known stone expert and is the founder of The National Training Center for Stone & Masonry Trades and Stone University
Friday, November 2, 2007
OSHA and Stone Fabrication
Coming Soon to Your Shop- An OSHA Inspection
By Frederick M. Hueston
If you haven’t had the pleasure or should I say the displeasure of an OSHA inspector knocking at your shops door, be warned, it will eventually happen. OSHA, otherwise known as the Occupational Safety and Health Administration is starting to pull surprises inspections on many stone and solid surface shops across the US. My phone rings on a daily basis with calls from frantic shop owners who are have been inspected and in many cases have been fined heavily for OSHA violations.
This article is intended to help you get your shop ready for an inspection as well as explain the what happens when Mr. OSHA shows up at your door. Of course I can’t include everything that an OSHA inspector will look for but I can point out some of the top violations and problems that occur with an inspection.
Who is OSHA and why do they make inspections?
The following is a quote directly from OSHA, which explains the reason for these inspections:
Under the Occupational Safety and Health Act of 1970 (the Act), the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) is authorized to conduct workplace inspections and
investigations to determine whether employers are complying with standards issued by the agency for safe and healthful workplaces. OSHA also enforces Section 5(a)(1) of the Act, known as the “General Duty Clause,” which requires that every working man and woman must be provided with a safe and healthful workplace.
Can an OSHA inspector just show up without an appointment and do I have to let them in?
Yes, they usually do show up without any notice whatsoever. The first thing an OSHA inspector will do is show you his/her credentials. He will then explain why your facility was chosen for an inspection, the scope of the inspection, and the standards that apply.
At this point feel free to ask the OSHA inspector where you can get a copy of the standards that apply. This will not delay the inspection process, but will give you some ammo later if you need it.
Next he will ask for an employee, owner or whoever is responsible for compliance to accompany him/her during the inspection process.
Do you have to let the OSHA inspector in? Yes, you do. If you don’t you are looking for trouble. You want to be as cooperative as possible. Be polite and don’t argue with the inspector. There will be plenty of time for that later.
What Will the OSHA inspector be looking for during the inspection?
The OSHA inspector observes safety and health conditions and practices; consults with employees privately, if necessary; takes photos, videotapes, and instrument readings; examines records; collects air samples; measures noise levels; surveys existing engineering controls; and monitors employee exposure to toxic fumes, gases, and dusts. He may also require employees to wear dust collection monitors for a period of time.
What Specifically will the OSHA inspector be looking for?
OSHA and its inspectors are sticklers for recording keeping . The following is a quote directly from one of OSHA’s documents:
OSHA places special importance on posting and recordkeeping requirements. The compliance officer will inspect records of deaths, injuries, and illnesses that the
employer is required to keep. He or she will check to see that a copy of the totals from the last page of OSHA Form Number 300 are posted as required and that the
OSHA workplace poster (OSHA 3165), which explains employees’ safety and health rights, is prominently displayed. Where records of employee exposure to toxic
substances and harmful physical agents are required, the compliance officer will examine them for compliance with the recordkeeping requirements. The compliance officer also requests a copy of the employer’s Hazard Communication Program. Under
OSHA’s Hazard Communication Standard, employers must establish a written, comprehensive communication program that includes provisions for container labeling, material safety data sheets, and an employee training program. The program must contain a list of the hazardous chemicals in each work area and the means the employer will use to inform employees of the hazards associated with these chemicals.
What happens next?
Once the inspection is complete the OSHA inspector will have a closing conference where he/she will go over everything found in during the inspection: The following is a summary of what the OSHA inspector will do during this conference:
The compliance officer gives the employer and all other parties involved a copy of Employer Rights and Responsibilities Following an OSHA Inspection (OSHA
3000) for their review and discussion. The compliance officer discusses with the employer all unsafe or unhealthful conditions observed during the
inspection and indicates all apparent violations for which he or she may issue or recommend a citation and a proposed penalty. The compliance officer will not indicate any specific proposed penalties but will inform the employer
of appeal rights.
What kind of fines can I expect?
These will all depends on what the OSHA inspector finds as well as other factors. The following is a summary of the fines that can be expected:
These are the types of violations that may be cited and
the penalties that may be proposed:
• Other-Than-Serious Violation—A violation that
has a direct relationship to job safety and health, but
probably would not cause death or serious physical
harm. OSHA may assess a penalty from $0 to $1,000
for each violation. The agency may adjust a penalty for
an other-than-serious violation downward by as much
as 95 percent, depending on the employer’s good
faith (demonstrated efforts to comply with the Act),
history of previous violations, and size of business.2
• Serious Violation—A violation where there is a
substantial probability that death or serious physical
harm could result. OSHA assesses the penalty for a
serious violation from $1,500 to $7,000 depending
on the gravity of the violation. OSHA may adjust a
penalty for a serious violation downward based on the
employer’s good faith, history of previous violations,
and size of business.
• Willful Violation—A violation that the employer
intentionally and knowingly commits. The employer is
aware that a hazardous condition exists, knows that the
condition violates a standard or other obligation of the
Act, and makes no reasonable effort to eliminate it.
OSHA may propose penalties of up to $70,000 for each
willful violation. The minimum willful penalty is $5,000.
An employer who is convicted in a criminal proceeding
of a willful violation of a standard that has resulted in
the death of an employee may be fined up to $250,000
(or $500,000 if the employer is a corporation) or
imprisoned up to 6 months, or both. A second conviction
doubles the possible term of imprisonment.
• Repeated Violation—A violation of any standard,
regulation, rule, or order where, upon reinspection, a
substantially similar violation is found and the original
citation has become a final order. Violations can bring a
fine or up to $70,000 for each such violation within the
previous 3 years. To calculate repeated violations,
OSHA adjusts the initial penalty for the size and then
multiplies by a factor of 2, 5, or 10 depending on the
size of the business.
• Failure-to-Abate—Failure to correct a prior violation
may bring a civil penalty of up to $7,000 for each day
3 For more information, see United States Code Annotated,
Title 18, Crimes and Criminal Procedures 3331 to 4120,
West Publishing Company, St. Paul, MN, 1991, pp. 53–54.
that the violation continues beyond the prescribed
abatement date.
Additional violations for which OSHA may issue citations
and proposed penalties are as follows:
• Falsifying records, reports, or applications can, upon
conviction, bring a criminal fine of $10,000 or up to
6 months in jail, or both.
• Violating posting requirements may bring a civil penalty
of $7,000.
• Assaulting a compliance officer or otherwise resisting,
opposing, intimidating, or interfering with a compliance
officer in the performance of his or her duties is a
criminal offense and is subject to a fine of not more than
$5,000 and imprisonment for not more than 3 years.
Citations and penalty procedures may differ somewhat
in states with their own occupational safety and health
programs.
Can I Appeal the findings?
Yes, you can and you should. The following are some guidelines for the appeal process:
Within 15 working days of receiving a citation, an employer who wishes to contest must submit a written objection to OSHA. The OSHA Area Director forwards the objection to
the Occupational Safety and Health Review Commission (OSHRC), which operates independently of OSHA. When issued a citation and notice of proposed penalty,
an employer may request an informal meeting with OSHA’s Area Director to discuss the case. OSHA encourages employers to have informal conferences with the Area
Director if the employer has issues arising from the inspection that he or she wishes to discuss or provide additional information. The Area Director is authorized to
enter into settlement agreements that revise citations and penalties to avoid prolonged legal disputes and result in speedier hazard abatement. (Alleged violations contested
before OSHRC do not need to be corrected until the contest is ruled upon by OSHRC.)
I know many shop owners who have greatly reduced fines and penalties through the appeal process. In my opinion, it is worth the effort.
Can I avoid an OSHA inspection?
The answer to this question is yes and no. OSHA does have a program known as volunteer compliance. Here is how the program works. You simply call OSHA and tell them that you would like to request an inspection so that you can find out what you need to do to be compliant. Under the OSHA rules they usually cannot fine you for what they find, however if you don’t remedy the findings then you could get fined. I know several shops that have opted for this program and have been successful. Its better to call them first than to have them pull a surprise inspection that could be costly. On the other hand if you are not prepared to comply then called OSHA is like calling the IRS to tell them you don’t think you paid enough taxes.
Some Specifics
Unfortunately OSHA’s rules and guidelines are not specific for the stone, engineered stone or solid surface industry. Sometimes these rules are not clear. However the following are some specific issues you should address in your shop.
MSDS- you will not only need MSDS for all the glues, solvents etc, but you will also need an MSDS for any stone, engineered stone or solid surface product you have in and around your shop. These MSDS are available from the manufacturer. In the case of natural stone, such as granite, marble and limestone, ISI( International Stone Institute) has them on their web site.
Storage of Solvents and Chemicals- I am surprised at how many shops store their glues and solvents on a bench or on a storage shelf. Even worse, I have seen glues and solvents next to propane torches in use. All glues and solvents should be stored in a fireproof cabinet. These cabinets can be purchased from most safety supply stores as well as Grainger, etc.
Grinder and Polisher Guards- This is an area that most shops get busted on. While most grinders and saws require a blade guard, it is unclear if polishers require one. I have seen many shops fine do the fact that had no guards on polishers. Well, most of us in the industry know that it is nearly impossible to operate a polisher with a guard on it. There are several people including myself who are working with OSHA to try and get a variance on this rule.
Silica Dust- granite and engineered stones contain quartz, which will produce silica borne dust. Silica dust is harmful and will eventually cause Silicosis, which can result in lung damage and death. OSHA is a stickler for compliance in this area and is one area that many shops fail. For this reason, if you do any dry cutting you need to not only have your employees where protective gear such as respirators etc. You also need an air entrapment system. On way around cutting dry is to do everything wet. This way the silica dust is contained and dust is not an issue. However, I know of at least two shops who have high silica dust despite that fact that they did everything wet. The reason is that they failed to hose the floor down on a daily basis. Once the water that contains the silica dries, simply simply walking across the floor can kick up the dust.
Slab storage- one of the areas where OSHA has busted stone and E stone shops is the way there slabs are stored. Many A frames are overloaded, unbalanced and are in jeopardy of falling over. There has been many cases where slabs have fallen over on workers and customers resulting in not only injury but also death. The one area I see with almost all the shops that I have visited is that none of their slabs are tied down. I would recommend that all your slabs be stored on well constructed A frames or slab racks ant that each A frame be equipped with straps to tie the slabs down so they don’t accidentally fall over.
Hard Hats- OK, a show of hands…how many shops have their employees wear hard hats when lifting slabs off an A frame? I would guess almost no one. If you lift a slab high off the ground with a clamp and a forklift, hardhats are required safety equipment.
No HAZCOM Program-most shops are unaware that OSHA requires you to have a Hazcom Program.
OSHA’s Hazard Communication Standard (HCS) is based on a
simple concept—that employees have both a need and a right to
know the hazards and identities of the chemicals they are exposed to
when working. They also need to know what protective measures
are available to prevent adverse effects from occurring. OSHA
designed the HCS to provide employees with the information they
need to know.
Knowledge acquired under the HCS will help employers provide
safer workplaces for their employees. When employees have information
about the chemicals being used, they can take steps to reduce
exposures, substitute less hazardous materials, and establish proper
work practices. These efforts will help prevent the occurrence of
work-related illnesses and injuries caused by chemicals.
The HCS addresses the issues of evaluating and communicating
chemical hazard information to workers. Evaluation of chemical
hazards involves a number of technical concepts, and is a process
that requires the professional judgment of experienced experts.
That’s why the HCS is designed so that employers who simply use
chemicals—rather than produce or import them—are not required to
evaluate the hazards of those chemicals. Hazard determination is the
responsibility of the manufacturers and importers of the chemicals,
who then must provide the hazard information to employers that
purchase their products
Employers that do not produce or import chemicals need only
focus on those parts of the rule that deal with establishing a workplace
program and communicating information to their workers.
This publication is a general guide for such employers to help them
determine what the HCS requires. It does not supplant or substitute
for the regulatory provisions, but rather provides a simplified outline
of the steps an average employer would follow to meet those
requirements.
HAZCOM programs can be purchased from many sources. The National Training Center for Stone & Masonry Trades has a custom made HAZCOM program for shops in this industry. Go to http://www.ntc-stone.com/ or call 800-841-7199 for further information.
NO safety Retainers on air tools- OSHA requires that all air tools have safety clips or retainers on all air tools to prevent them from becoming accidentally disconnected. I have rarely seen a shop where safety retainers are installed on air connections.
Improper Grounding of electrical Tools OSHA requires that all electric tools be approved double insulated or properly grounded. I have seen many electric tools sold in our industry that do not meet this requirement.
Hearing Protection- If your shop exceeds the permissible noise exposure than OSHA will require you to have a hearing conservation program which will include having employees tested on a regular bases, as well as providing the proper hearing protection and training your employees on the dangers of high noise levels.
Poor or improper Lighting- OSHA can also cite you for not having the proper lighting in your shop as well as your office. OSHA publishes a table, which shows Minimum Illumination Intensities in Foot-candles various areas in the shop.
Of course there are many other safety issues that you should look at in and around your shop. Cords across the floor, GFI’s ., door ways clear, safety goggles and respirators etc.
It’s only a matter of time before OSHA comes knocking at your door, so be prepared.
some of the quotes used in this article come from OSHA documents that are public domain and are not copyrighted.
Fred Hueston is founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades and Stone University.
http://www.ntc-stone.com/
http://www.stoneuniveristy.org/
By Frederick M. Hueston
If you haven’t had the pleasure or should I say the displeasure of an OSHA inspector knocking at your shops door, be warned, it will eventually happen. OSHA, otherwise known as the Occupational Safety and Health Administration is starting to pull surprises inspections on many stone and solid surface shops across the US. My phone rings on a daily basis with calls from frantic shop owners who are have been inspected and in many cases have been fined heavily for OSHA violations.
This article is intended to help you get your shop ready for an inspection as well as explain the what happens when Mr. OSHA shows up at your door. Of course I can’t include everything that an OSHA inspector will look for but I can point out some of the top violations and problems that occur with an inspection.
Who is OSHA and why do they make inspections?
The following is a quote directly from OSHA, which explains the reason for these inspections:
Under the Occupational Safety and Health Act of 1970 (the Act), the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) is authorized to conduct workplace inspections and
investigations to determine whether employers are complying with standards issued by the agency for safe and healthful workplaces. OSHA also enforces Section 5(a)(1) of the Act, known as the “General Duty Clause,” which requires that every working man and woman must be provided with a safe and healthful workplace.
Can an OSHA inspector just show up without an appointment and do I have to let them in?
Yes, they usually do show up without any notice whatsoever. The first thing an OSHA inspector will do is show you his/her credentials. He will then explain why your facility was chosen for an inspection, the scope of the inspection, and the standards that apply.
At this point feel free to ask the OSHA inspector where you can get a copy of the standards that apply. This will not delay the inspection process, but will give you some ammo later if you need it.
Next he will ask for an employee, owner or whoever is responsible for compliance to accompany him/her during the inspection process.
Do you have to let the OSHA inspector in? Yes, you do. If you don’t you are looking for trouble. You want to be as cooperative as possible. Be polite and don’t argue with the inspector. There will be plenty of time for that later.
What Will the OSHA inspector be looking for during the inspection?
The OSHA inspector observes safety and health conditions and practices; consults with employees privately, if necessary; takes photos, videotapes, and instrument readings; examines records; collects air samples; measures noise levels; surveys existing engineering controls; and monitors employee exposure to toxic fumes, gases, and dusts. He may also require employees to wear dust collection monitors for a period of time.
What Specifically will the OSHA inspector be looking for?
OSHA and its inspectors are sticklers for recording keeping . The following is a quote directly from one of OSHA’s documents:
OSHA places special importance on posting and recordkeeping requirements. The compliance officer will inspect records of deaths, injuries, and illnesses that the
employer is required to keep. He or she will check to see that a copy of the totals from the last page of OSHA Form Number 300 are posted as required and that the
OSHA workplace poster (OSHA 3165), which explains employees’ safety and health rights, is prominently displayed. Where records of employee exposure to toxic
substances and harmful physical agents are required, the compliance officer will examine them for compliance with the recordkeeping requirements. The compliance officer also requests a copy of the employer’s Hazard Communication Program. Under
OSHA’s Hazard Communication Standard, employers must establish a written, comprehensive communication program that includes provisions for container labeling, material safety data sheets, and an employee training program. The program must contain a list of the hazardous chemicals in each work area and the means the employer will use to inform employees of the hazards associated with these chemicals.
What happens next?
Once the inspection is complete the OSHA inspector will have a closing conference where he/she will go over everything found in during the inspection: The following is a summary of what the OSHA inspector will do during this conference:
The compliance officer gives the employer and all other parties involved a copy of Employer Rights and Responsibilities Following an OSHA Inspection (OSHA
3000) for their review and discussion. The compliance officer discusses with the employer all unsafe or unhealthful conditions observed during the
inspection and indicates all apparent violations for which he or she may issue or recommend a citation and a proposed penalty. The compliance officer will not indicate any specific proposed penalties but will inform the employer
of appeal rights.
What kind of fines can I expect?
These will all depends on what the OSHA inspector finds as well as other factors. The following is a summary of the fines that can be expected:
These are the types of violations that may be cited and
the penalties that may be proposed:
• Other-Than-Serious Violation—A violation that
has a direct relationship to job safety and health, but
probably would not cause death or serious physical
harm. OSHA may assess a penalty from $0 to $1,000
for each violation. The agency may adjust a penalty for
an other-than-serious violation downward by as much
as 95 percent, depending on the employer’s good
faith (demonstrated efforts to comply with the Act),
history of previous violations, and size of business.2
• Serious Violation—A violation where there is a
substantial probability that death or serious physical
harm could result. OSHA assesses the penalty for a
serious violation from $1,500 to $7,000 depending
on the gravity of the violation. OSHA may adjust a
penalty for a serious violation downward based on the
employer’s good faith, history of previous violations,
and size of business.
• Willful Violation—A violation that the employer
intentionally and knowingly commits. The employer is
aware that a hazardous condition exists, knows that the
condition violates a standard or other obligation of the
Act, and makes no reasonable effort to eliminate it.
OSHA may propose penalties of up to $70,000 for each
willful violation. The minimum willful penalty is $5,000.
An employer who is convicted in a criminal proceeding
of a willful violation of a standard that has resulted in
the death of an employee may be fined up to $250,000
(or $500,000 if the employer is a corporation) or
imprisoned up to 6 months, or both. A second conviction
doubles the possible term of imprisonment.
• Repeated Violation—A violation of any standard,
regulation, rule, or order where, upon reinspection, a
substantially similar violation is found and the original
citation has become a final order. Violations can bring a
fine or up to $70,000 for each such violation within the
previous 3 years. To calculate repeated violations,
OSHA adjusts the initial penalty for the size and then
multiplies by a factor of 2, 5, or 10 depending on the
size of the business.
• Failure-to-Abate—Failure to correct a prior violation
may bring a civil penalty of up to $7,000 for each day
3 For more information, see United States Code Annotated,
Title 18, Crimes and Criminal Procedures 3331 to 4120,
West Publishing Company, St. Paul, MN, 1991, pp. 53–54.
that the violation continues beyond the prescribed
abatement date.
Additional violations for which OSHA may issue citations
and proposed penalties are as follows:
• Falsifying records, reports, or applications can, upon
conviction, bring a criminal fine of $10,000 or up to
6 months in jail, or both.
• Violating posting requirements may bring a civil penalty
of $7,000.
• Assaulting a compliance officer or otherwise resisting,
opposing, intimidating, or interfering with a compliance
officer in the performance of his or her duties is a
criminal offense and is subject to a fine of not more than
$5,000 and imprisonment for not more than 3 years.
Citations and penalty procedures may differ somewhat
in states with their own occupational safety and health
programs.
Can I Appeal the findings?
Yes, you can and you should. The following are some guidelines for the appeal process:
Within 15 working days of receiving a citation, an employer who wishes to contest must submit a written objection to OSHA. The OSHA Area Director forwards the objection to
the Occupational Safety and Health Review Commission (OSHRC), which operates independently of OSHA. When issued a citation and notice of proposed penalty,
an employer may request an informal meeting with OSHA’s Area Director to discuss the case. OSHA encourages employers to have informal conferences with the Area
Director if the employer has issues arising from the inspection that he or she wishes to discuss or provide additional information. The Area Director is authorized to
enter into settlement agreements that revise citations and penalties to avoid prolonged legal disputes and result in speedier hazard abatement. (Alleged violations contested
before OSHRC do not need to be corrected until the contest is ruled upon by OSHRC.)
I know many shop owners who have greatly reduced fines and penalties through the appeal process. In my opinion, it is worth the effort.
Can I avoid an OSHA inspection?
The answer to this question is yes and no. OSHA does have a program known as volunteer compliance. Here is how the program works. You simply call OSHA and tell them that you would like to request an inspection so that you can find out what you need to do to be compliant. Under the OSHA rules they usually cannot fine you for what they find, however if you don’t remedy the findings then you could get fined. I know several shops that have opted for this program and have been successful. Its better to call them first than to have them pull a surprise inspection that could be costly. On the other hand if you are not prepared to comply then called OSHA is like calling the IRS to tell them you don’t think you paid enough taxes.
Some Specifics
Unfortunately OSHA’s rules and guidelines are not specific for the stone, engineered stone or solid surface industry. Sometimes these rules are not clear. However the following are some specific issues you should address in your shop.
MSDS- you will not only need MSDS for all the glues, solvents etc, but you will also need an MSDS for any stone, engineered stone or solid surface product you have in and around your shop. These MSDS are available from the manufacturer. In the case of natural stone, such as granite, marble and limestone, ISI( International Stone Institute) has them on their web site.
Storage of Solvents and Chemicals- I am surprised at how many shops store their glues and solvents on a bench or on a storage shelf. Even worse, I have seen glues and solvents next to propane torches in use. All glues and solvents should be stored in a fireproof cabinet. These cabinets can be purchased from most safety supply stores as well as Grainger, etc.
Grinder and Polisher Guards- This is an area that most shops get busted on. While most grinders and saws require a blade guard, it is unclear if polishers require one. I have seen many shops fine do the fact that had no guards on polishers. Well, most of us in the industry know that it is nearly impossible to operate a polisher with a guard on it. There are several people including myself who are working with OSHA to try and get a variance on this rule.
Silica Dust- granite and engineered stones contain quartz, which will produce silica borne dust. Silica dust is harmful and will eventually cause Silicosis, which can result in lung damage and death. OSHA is a stickler for compliance in this area and is one area that many shops fail. For this reason, if you do any dry cutting you need to not only have your employees where protective gear such as respirators etc. You also need an air entrapment system. On way around cutting dry is to do everything wet. This way the silica dust is contained and dust is not an issue. However, I know of at least two shops who have high silica dust despite that fact that they did everything wet. The reason is that they failed to hose the floor down on a daily basis. Once the water that contains the silica dries, simply simply walking across the floor can kick up the dust.
Slab storage- one of the areas where OSHA has busted stone and E stone shops is the way there slabs are stored. Many A frames are overloaded, unbalanced and are in jeopardy of falling over. There has been many cases where slabs have fallen over on workers and customers resulting in not only injury but also death. The one area I see with almost all the shops that I have visited is that none of their slabs are tied down. I would recommend that all your slabs be stored on well constructed A frames or slab racks ant that each A frame be equipped with straps to tie the slabs down so they don’t accidentally fall over.
Hard Hats- OK, a show of hands…how many shops have their employees wear hard hats when lifting slabs off an A frame? I would guess almost no one. If you lift a slab high off the ground with a clamp and a forklift, hardhats are required safety equipment.
No HAZCOM Program-most shops are unaware that OSHA requires you to have a Hazcom Program.
OSHA’s Hazard Communication Standard (HCS) is based on a
simple concept—that employees have both a need and a right to
know the hazards and identities of the chemicals they are exposed to
when working. They also need to know what protective measures
are available to prevent adverse effects from occurring. OSHA
designed the HCS to provide employees with the information they
need to know.
Knowledge acquired under the HCS will help employers provide
safer workplaces for their employees. When employees have information
about the chemicals being used, they can take steps to reduce
exposures, substitute less hazardous materials, and establish proper
work practices. These efforts will help prevent the occurrence of
work-related illnesses and injuries caused by chemicals.
The HCS addresses the issues of evaluating and communicating
chemical hazard information to workers. Evaluation of chemical
hazards involves a number of technical concepts, and is a process
that requires the professional judgment of experienced experts.
That’s why the HCS is designed so that employers who simply use
chemicals—rather than produce or import them—are not required to
evaluate the hazards of those chemicals. Hazard determination is the
responsibility of the manufacturers and importers of the chemicals,
who then must provide the hazard information to employers that
purchase their products
Employers that do not produce or import chemicals need only
focus on those parts of the rule that deal with establishing a workplace
program and communicating information to their workers.
This publication is a general guide for such employers to help them
determine what the HCS requires. It does not supplant or substitute
for the regulatory provisions, but rather provides a simplified outline
of the steps an average employer would follow to meet those
requirements.
HAZCOM programs can be purchased from many sources. The National Training Center for Stone & Masonry Trades has a custom made HAZCOM program for shops in this industry. Go to http://www.ntc-stone.com/ or call 800-841-7199 for further information.
NO safety Retainers on air tools- OSHA requires that all air tools have safety clips or retainers on all air tools to prevent them from becoming accidentally disconnected. I have rarely seen a shop where safety retainers are installed on air connections.
Improper Grounding of electrical Tools OSHA requires that all electric tools be approved double insulated or properly grounded. I have seen many electric tools sold in our industry that do not meet this requirement.
Hearing Protection- If your shop exceeds the permissible noise exposure than OSHA will require you to have a hearing conservation program which will include having employees tested on a regular bases, as well as providing the proper hearing protection and training your employees on the dangers of high noise levels.
Poor or improper Lighting- OSHA can also cite you for not having the proper lighting in your shop as well as your office. OSHA publishes a table, which shows Minimum Illumination Intensities in Foot-candles various areas in the shop.
Of course there are many other safety issues that you should look at in and around your shop. Cords across the floor, GFI’s ., door ways clear, safety goggles and respirators etc.
It’s only a matter of time before OSHA comes knocking at your door, so be prepared.
some of the quotes used in this article come from OSHA documents that are public domain and are not copyrighted.
Fred Hueston is founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades and Stone University.
http://www.ntc-stone.com/
http://www.stoneuniveristy.org/
Are Floor Strippers Safe?
Are Floor Strippers Safe
By Frederick M. Hueston
Almost all schools systems and public buildings apply acrylic finishes to there , terrazzo and stone flooring to keep them shiny and looking clean. Often these finishes have to be striped off and a new finish applied. The strippers that are used to remove these acrylic coatings often contain hazardous chemicals that are harmful to humans, animals and the environment. The following information will explore how dangerous these strippers are and offer an alternative.
I examined the Material Safety Data Sheets(MSDS) of over 20 popular strippers used to remove acrylic floor coatings. I found that there are several common ingredients found which are the following:
Monoethanolamine
Butoxyethanol
Ethanolamine
Ethylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether
Sodium Hydroxide
I next examined the dangerous of these ingredients
Butoxyethanol
Butoxyethanol goes by several names including ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol butyl either, ethylene glycol n-butyl ether, Butyl Cellosolve, butyl glycol, butyl oxitol,glycol butyl ether, Dowanol EB, Gafcol EB, poly-solv EB, and Ektasolve EB. If you see any of these ingredients on an MSDS for the stripper you are using you are dealing with Butoyethanol.
Butoxyethanol is used in many products other that floor strippers, including paints, varnishes, lacquers, paint thinners, agricultural products, herbicides, silicon caulks, cutting oils, fabric dyes and inks and household cleaners and even in some floor cleaners.
Butoyethanol is a dangerous chemical in many ways. It can pass into the air from water and soil as a vapor. This means that the vapors are emitted when you mix your strippers in water and apply them to the floor.
Butoxyethanol is very harmful to humans and has been shown in laboratory testing to cause the following:
Irritation of the nose and eyes
Headaches
A metallic Taste
Vomiting
Breathing problems
Low blood pressure
Lowered levels of hemoglobin
Blood in the urine
Metabolic acidosis
Birth Defects
Kidney and liver damage
Butoxyethanol and the Environment
Butoxyethanol can be absorbed by soil and can make its way into the water supply.
The warnings on many labels of floor stripper containing Butoxyethanol say the following:
Avoid breathing vapor or mist.Avoid contact with eyes, skin and clothing.Keep container closed.Use only with adequate ventilation.Wash thoroughly after handling.Keep away from heat and flame.
Do you want this harmful chemical used in your school or building?
Monoethanolamine
Monoethanolamine is another common chemical found in strippers.
Monoethanolamine also goes by several names such as Colamine, Glycinol, Olamine, Ethanolamine, 2-Aminoethanol, 2-Hydroxyethylamine, beta-Ethanolamine and beta-Hydroxyethylamine.
Some of the potential health effects include the following:
Extremely harmful to the eyes.
Harmful to lungs, skin.
Tissue damage can occur around mucus membranes
Can cause burns on the skin
Maybe toxic to Kidneys, Lungs, liver and central nervous system.
Monoethanolamine in also combustible.and corrosive
Harmful to animals and the environment.
Monoethanolamine can produce very harmful byproducts due to degradation in the environment.
Sodium Hydroxide
Another chemical found in many strippers is Sodium Hydroxide. Sodium Hydroxide
Is commonly known as lye. Any one who has ever worked with this knows it can easily burn you skin, not to mention what it can due to your eyes and mouth. It is classified as a poison and is very corrosive.
Since it is a poison it is harmful to animals and fish.
Conclusions and Alternatives
As you can see the common chemicals found in numerous stripper formulas are not safe for humans or the environment and cannot be classified as a sustainable practice if using them.
The good news is there are alternatives to these chemicals.
Acrylic coating on terrazzo and stone flooring can be removed mechanically with abrasives using no chemicals other than water.
Many Chemical companies are manufacturing strippers that are safe to work with and are Green Certified.
Fred Hueston is the founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades and Stone University. http://www.stoneuniversity.org/
Just Say No To Rugs-Danger Under Foot
Danger Under Foot- Say No To Rugs
By Frederick M. Hueston
You just installed brand new wall to wall carpeting in your home or office and you breathe in that new carpet smell. You step on that plush carpet and feel comfortable and happy that you have a fresh, new carpet. What you don't know is that new carpet smell is emitting hazardous chemical vapors in the air which include toluene, benzene, formaldehyde, ethyl benzene, styrene, acetone and the list goes on and on. There is even carcinogenic chemicals such as p-Dichlorobenzene in that fresh new carpet. These are the hazardous chemicals found in new carpet but there are other harmful chemicals that can be found in the adhesive that is used to install them as well as stain protectors, fire retardants etc. The next time you lie on your carpet to watch TV or have your little son or daughter crawling around think about the chemicals you are being exposed too.
Now you're convinced not to buy new carpeting and you decide to keep your old carpet and just have it cleaned instead. The hazards found in old carpet are as bad or worse than new carpet. There are many chemicals that have been banned in carpet production that your old carpet may contain. Dust mites, dirt and who knows what can be found in older carpeting. Do you ever spray your house for bugs? If you do these pesticides will accumulate in your carpet and will be trapped in the fibers. In addition smoke and other odors can become trapped in the fibers. If you have a pet and it has fleas, guess where you'll also find not only the fleas but their eggs as well.
Cleaning your carpet will not eliminate all these harmful chemicals and substances. There is some new research that is linking certain carpet cleaning chemicals to certain diseases such as Kawasaki's disease. There are even some organizations that are linking carpet to allergies, fibromyolgia, etc
These warnings are not just my opinion but many non profit organizations and companies have similar warnings. Here is a brief list of these organizations:
Environment & Human Health Inc. (EHHI)
The Citizens for Safe Carpet
Environmental Access Research NetworkAmerican Lung Association Even the Center for Disease Control(CDC) posts warnings about the use of carpeting, including the fact that carpet can harbor toxic molds(www.cdc.gov)
How do you avoid all these problems. Its simple..remove your carpet and install hard flooring such as stone or ceramic. Marble, granite, limestone or terrazzo make excellent, safe floor. They don't trap hazardous chemicals, nor do they emit any harmful gases. Carpeting will not last forever, however stone flooring will last for over 100 years if properly cared for.
The next time you consider purchasing that new carpet, do some research and check out the additional resources below and you'll be running to the stone store instead of the carpet store.
Additional reading sources
http://www.ecomall.com/greenshopping/abscarpet.htm
http://www.checnet.org/healthehouse/education/articles-detail.asp?Main_ID=443
http://www.checnet.org/healthehouse/education/articles-detail.asp?Main_ID=442
http://www.holisticmed.com/carpet/tc-points.txt
http://www.nontoxic.com/purewoolcarpets/whattoavoid.html
Fred Hueston is the founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades and Stone University. www.ntc-stone.com , http://www.stoneuniversity.org/
By Frederick M. Hueston
You just installed brand new wall to wall carpeting in your home or office and you breathe in that new carpet smell. You step on that plush carpet and feel comfortable and happy that you have a fresh, new carpet. What you don't know is that new carpet smell is emitting hazardous chemical vapors in the air which include toluene, benzene, formaldehyde, ethyl benzene, styrene, acetone and the list goes on and on. There is even carcinogenic chemicals such as p-Dichlorobenzene in that fresh new carpet. These are the hazardous chemicals found in new carpet but there are other harmful chemicals that can be found in the adhesive that is used to install them as well as stain protectors, fire retardants etc. The next time you lie on your carpet to watch TV or have your little son or daughter crawling around think about the chemicals you are being exposed too.
Now you're convinced not to buy new carpeting and you decide to keep your old carpet and just have it cleaned instead. The hazards found in old carpet are as bad or worse than new carpet. There are many chemicals that have been banned in carpet production that your old carpet may contain. Dust mites, dirt and who knows what can be found in older carpeting. Do you ever spray your house for bugs? If you do these pesticides will accumulate in your carpet and will be trapped in the fibers. In addition smoke and other odors can become trapped in the fibers. If you have a pet and it has fleas, guess where you'll also find not only the fleas but their eggs as well.
Cleaning your carpet will not eliminate all these harmful chemicals and substances. There is some new research that is linking certain carpet cleaning chemicals to certain diseases such as Kawasaki's disease. There are even some organizations that are linking carpet to allergies, fibromyolgia, etc
These warnings are not just my opinion but many non profit organizations and companies have similar warnings. Here is a brief list of these organizations:
Environment & Human Health Inc. (EHHI)
The Citizens for Safe Carpet
Environmental Access Research NetworkAmerican Lung Association Even the Center for Disease Control(CDC) posts warnings about the use of carpeting, including the fact that carpet can harbor toxic molds(www.cdc.gov)
How do you avoid all these problems. Its simple..remove your carpet and install hard flooring such as stone or ceramic. Marble, granite, limestone or terrazzo make excellent, safe floor. They don't trap hazardous chemicals, nor do they emit any harmful gases. Carpeting will not last forever, however stone flooring will last for over 100 years if properly cared for.
The next time you consider purchasing that new carpet, do some research and check out the additional resources below and you'll be running to the stone store instead of the carpet store.
Additional reading sources
http://www.ecomall.com/greenshopping/abscarpet.htm
http://www.checnet.org/healthehouse/education/articles-detail.asp?Main_ID=443
http://www.checnet.org/healthehouse/education/articles-detail.asp?Main_ID=442
http://www.holisticmed.com/carpet/tc-points.txt
http://www.nontoxic.com/purewoolcarpets/whattoavoid.html
Fred Hueston is the founder of The National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades and Stone University. www.ntc-stone.com , http://www.stoneuniversity.org/
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